Harrods buying director states LFW AW25 was “a study in refined impact”

For many, London Fashion Week’s autumn/winter 2025 season was quieter, feeling the impact of a shorter schedule and the loss of shows from designers such as JW Anderson, while for others it showcased how resilient and creative designers in London are.

For Simon Longland, buying director – fashion at Harrods, London Fashion Week this season was “about restraint and impact,” with the best collections coming from Erdem, which he described as “exceptional,” alongside Huishan Zhang, Roksanda, SS Daley, Emilia Wickstead, Simone Rocha, and Burberry, who all continued to make an impact.

Longland said: “London Fashion Week AW25 was a study in refined impact, with Erdem delivering the season’s most exceptional collection - its poetic elegance amplified by a masterful presentation at the British Museum. Huishan Zhang and Roksanda continued to shape London’s narrative, balancing precision with fluidity.”

LFW AW25 trends: Shades of green, art inspiration, embellishments and statement outerwear

Regarding trends, Harrods’ buying director was drawn to all the shades of green, embellished detailing, 60s influences, and luxurious outerwear, as well as the inspirations from the art world. Longland noted Erdem’s collaboration with Kaye Donachie, which brought portraiture to fabric and how SS Daley channelled Francis Cadell’s brushwork. Roksanda, known for using colour blocking and sculptural shapes, also reinterpreted Phyllida Barlow’s sculptural language into volume and form.

“Green in its many shades - mint, apple, grass - wove through collections at Erdem, Huishan Zhang, and Emilia Wickstead, while embellishment took centre stage, from crystal-encrusted gowns to subtle sequin panels,” added Longland on the key themes. “A 1960s influence brought reimagined pillbox hats, sculptural minis, and novelty PVC coats at Emilia Wickstead and Huishan Zhang, while colour palettes softened - muted yet intentional tones defining Roksanda, Erdem, and Edeline Lee.”

Outerwear continued to shine for AW25, with Longland noting that designers opted for both “function and indulgence”.

Longland added: “Huishan Zhang’s crystal details and Simone Rocha’s pearl-embellished hardware elevated utility into luxury. Nowhere was this more evident than at Burberry, where trenches, greatcoats, and rain capes in deep earth tones reasserted the house’s mastery of protection from the elements. The iconic check appeared with subtle restraint, reinforcing heritage through quiet sophistication.”

Summing up AW25 at LFW, Longland stated: “This season was about restraint and impact—where luxury was deliberate, innovation measured, and the conversation between past and present more compelling than ever.”