In Pictures: David Koma debuts first collection for Blumarine

The first Blumarine collection under the brand’s new creative director, David Koma, has officially been revealed. For the autumn/winter 2025 pre-collection, Koma brought the brand into its next chapter, diving into a cross-generational Milanese wardrobe.

At the crux of the line is Blumarine’s signature femininity, a value that was prominent under Koma’s predecessor Walter Chiapponi, and is seemingly set to continue defining the new work of Koma, himself.

With this, Koma stays true to classic codes of the Italian house, while still nodding to its more recent history, incorporating logos, such as the brand’s symbolic rose motif, and emblems into the designs, which range from cargo green workwear to floaty, ruffled gowns.

Outerwear undergoes a transformation throughout, with furry accents amplifying cuffs, collars and hemlines, akin to knitwear, which also takes on exaggerated forms, seen in button-up cardigans and two-piece sets.

The use of fur textures intends to pay tribute to the “prominent pets native to the streets of Milan”, a press release noted, with cat prints and animal slogans also adorning various items.

Elsewhere, little black dresses complete with garlands, lace panel bodycons and frilly maxi gowns contribute to the more eveningwear side of the line, contrasting cocktail dresses in comfy viscose knit or supple leather that offer a more casual perspective on the category.

Transformation extends into accessories, with many signature silhouettes remaining for this collection, albeit in updated forms. The brand’s lip-shaped Kiss Me bag, for example, is rejuvenated in cashmere-like sheepskin, while a new evening zip bag intends to reference the house’s swirly B logo design.