Indian designers opt for conscious materials

Mumbai - It looks like being stylish is not about the right cut, colour and style any more but also about the right material; conscious material that is. Considering long-term consequences for the animal kingdom and environment while producing clothes is becoming a concern for a growing number of designers and fashion houses, not only on home shores but worldwide. While European and North American designers like Stella McCartney, Vivienne Westwood, Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein, Armani, Ralph Lauren and others made a decision for animal friendly creations a while back, their counterparts in India are also increasingly concerned about the impact of their creations on the animal world and the environment. And in a country where at every meal, from fancy to street fare, vegetarian and vegan options are the norm, it only seems natural that this practice should extend to fashion as well.

"I can see more and more social awareness and responsibility among the design fraternity in recent years", confirms Mumbai-based designer Anavila Misra as quoted by Hindustan Times. Misra, who started her career in 2010, stays away from animal fibres and only uses organic materials for her creations. She is also know for her experiments with organic linen for casual saris, a material not usually associated with the traditional garment as it is a tricky yarn that breaks easily.

Cotton, khadi, linen and hemp are conscious alternatives

"Fashion needs to be sustainable in a manner that it does not harm animals or the environment, and at the same time meets the expectations of the consumers", agrees Mumbai-based designer Gaurang Shah who has been promoting India's handloom industry for many years. "I am an ardent believer of being absolutely natural when it comes to clothing, textiles and the colours that are used as dyes," he adds.

In terms of materials, there is much to choose from in India, a country long associated with a rich textile tradition. "I love cotton, silks and khadi. There are abundant natural elements that can be used for textile designing and colouring. I refrain from using anything that is synthetic or has anything to do with animals", emphasises Shah.

Apart from being unpractical in a country that has a predominantly subtropical climate (something that many international brands fail to realise when entering India), synthetic materials like rayon, acryclic and nylon are also a no-no for a growing number of designers because of their impact on the environment: "Rayon is recycled wood pulp and is treated with harsh chemicals to survive regular washing and wearing", explains New Delhi-based designer Ridhi Mehra. "All synthetic fabrics that are made with energy-intensive processes and require large amounts of crude oil should be avoided by the industry", she adds and points to sustainably grown fibre crops like cotton, hemp, bamboo and others that require fewer pesticides and water.

Though Indian law makes the use of animal products like ivory, fur and even shells and corals illegal, many animal skins that encourage poaching and hunting are not. "Consumers and retailers should move away from stone-age fabrics to digital-age ones. The government of India should encourage alternatives to animal skin that are humane and more environmentally sustainable", finds NG Jayasimha, managing director of the Humane Society International, India.

And efforts are under way - Ahimsa Silk, for example, is created without killing the silk worm and is being used by Bangalore-based designer Priyanka Ella Lorena Lama, Mumbai-based designer Archana Kochhar and Nagpur-based Shruti Sanchetti who is working to revive traditional Indian weaves.

Some designers also blame fast fashion for the bad rep that the fashion industry gets in terms of the stress it puts on the environment. "We do not realise that everything we wear impacts the earth", states Goa-based designer and environmental activist Wendell Rodricks. "The amount of water and vegetal produce that goes into harvesting natural fibres is much less. It's better to buy an expensive long-lasting cotton t-shirt than buying multiple cheap ones that impact or harm the natural elements of this planet." We couldn't agree more.

Images: linen sari / Anavila Misra; Ahimsa silk design / P.E.L.L.A ; Eco Goa collection / Wendell Rodricks