Indian designers take the spotlight at International Fashion Showcase
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Indian debuted at the recent International Fashion Showcase in London with five emerging Indian designers showcasing creations. Every year, during London Fashion Week, IFS celebrates emerging talent from across the world. This year, in association with Lakmé Fashion Week and IMG Reliance, five emerging designers: Ujjawal Dubey of Antar-Agni, Ragini Ahuja of Ikai, Karishma Shahani Khan of [KA][SHA], Priyanka Lama of PELLA and Alan Alexander Kaleekal of Kaleekal—presented their work at the iconic Somerset House. The exhibition titled ‘Indian Pastoralists’ which was inspired by the multi-faceted lifestyles of India’s nomadic pastoral communities, bagged the International Fashion Showcase Country Award.
Karishma Shahani Khan’s work was inspired by the Rabaris, a nomad tribe. Fabrics such as cotton and mashru, characteristic of the community, formed the basis of her creations. While the color palette varied from jet black to bright blue, surface textures included traditional techniques of tie and dye, thread embroidery, mirror work and appliqué.
Alan Alexander Kaleekal’s exhibit presented three shawls hand woven in pashmina wool, tussar silk and cashmere, featuring Toda embroidery. The Toda community in south India is known for its shawls accentuated with heavy hand embroidery and intricate geometric patterns.
Ragini Ahuja’s work took its cues from the Drokpa community’s cultural exuberance. The designer showcased a present-day version of the sheep skin cape, a hand woven Himalayan silk wool jacket appliquéd with sheep nappa leather. Finishing touches came in the form of tonal flowers and lustrous silver beads.
Priyanka Lama from Bangalore was inspired by highland communities of Lachen and Lachung for her exhibit, which focused on indigenous eri silk, yarn waste and patterns developed from a single block of fabric.
Ujjawal Dubey’s creations incorporated the distinct layering and draping styles of the Van Gujjars. The fabric used was a custom weave of hand woven cotton and khadi with heavy weight warp and slubs in black and beige.