Indian fashion leaders discuss AI and traditional craftsmanship at BRICS+ Fashion Summit

Indian fashion industry representatives highlighted artificial intelligence (AI) and traditional craftsmanship at the recent BRICS+ Fashion Summit in Moscow, exploring how designers can adopt emerging technologies while safeguarding India's textile heritage.

The international fashion business forum gathered industry experts from more than 60 countries to analyse economic trends, production technologies, consumer behaviour, traditional crafts, brand influence and AI. Discussions examined markets across Asia, Africa, Latin America, Middle East and Europe, where design, manufacturing and retail operations continue to evolve.

Creative limits of AI technology

Indian brand KGL founder and creative director Kanika Goyal evaluated whether AI serves as a creative partner or an operational tool for design teams. Recognized in Forbes 30 Under 30 and Entrepreneur 35 Under 35, Goyal has dressed public figures like M.I.A. and Priyanka Chopra Jonas, and completed a brand collaboration with German sportswear manufacturer Adidas.

“AI can help with the design process, but it cannot understand how a model feels or whether an embroidery detail is in the right place. AI is more of an assistant because it has no emotions or life experience,” Goyal said.

Effective application of AI depends on precise prompt formulations and critical evaluation of generated outputs, according to Goyal. Design decisions regarding modifications or rejections must remain with the creative lead rather than being fully delegated to digital systems.

She noted that AI enables emerging labels to explore concepts without substantial capital investment previously required for visualization, photography and 3D design talent.

“Democratising the tools doesn't democratise taste. Everyone can potentially generate an image. But not everyone knows which image is worth pursuing,” Goyal added.

Commercial viability of textile heritage

Indian luxury label Ezma Fine Cashmere business head Subhendu Ghosh Dastidar addressed the commercial position of artisanal craft during a panel session titled ‘The Cultural Code: From Historical Archives to Worldwide Impact’.

Dastidar noted that cultural heritage alone does not secure international retail success, emphasizing that products must meet strict quality standards expected by global consumers. He described historical archives as working repositories of technical knowledge covering raw materials, cultural practices and ancestral production methods that contemporary designers must translate into modern commercial products.

KGL demonstrated this approach by reinterpreting traditional techniques through contemporary silhouettes.

“At KGL, we work extensively with hand embroidery, but interpret it through very contemporary materials, techniques and silhouettes. I think that is how craft survives, when it continues to evolve and becomes relevant to a new generation,” Goyal said.

The brand presented its Arc Echo collection through a partnership between Indian industry body Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) and Moscow Fashion Week, held alongside the summit. The collection features structured jackets and trousers constructed from narrow strips of upcycled denim, with hand embroidery produced by New Delhi artisans, alongside mosaic knitwear and interwoven textiles.

Export potential of Indian artisanal crafts

FDCI chairman Sunil Sethi pointed to established designers combining traditional artisanal techniques with modern design language. Sethi cited examples including Anamika Khanna's chikankari embroidery paired with relaxed silhouettes, Rahul Mishra's zardosi work, Falguni Shane Peacock's beadwork and sequins, and Sabyasachi's handloom textiles.

These developments demonstrate a shift toward greater creative autonomy within Indian high-end fashion. Sethi underscored that international demand for handmade apparel presents a key growth vector for Indian fashion exports.

“The foreign customer appreciates handmade crafts, as they represent true luxury through their timeless quality and reflect our rich textile traditions and processes that have withstood the test of time,” Sethi said.