Issey Miyake plays with form in Paris, Dries Van Noten comes of age

Paris - Japanese house Issey Miyake presented the new fluid and colourful collection from its IM Men label on Thursday. The show took place in Paris on the third day of the men's fashion week.

Unveiled in the heart of the Collège des Bernardins, the brand's new autumn/winter collection is aptly named "formless form".

The coats are long and loose, as are the wrap trousers and sarouels that dance to the rhythm of the models' steps. Large tunics are layered on top. Some trousers and puffer jackets appear to be cut from duvets.

Ties are worn either excessively long or draped over the shoulder, while multiple scarves are combined to create ponchos.

The initial silhouettes in black, white, beige and brown were followed by brightly coloured outfits. Bright pink is paired with orange or purple, and blue with yellow, all connected by a gradient of green.

The collection is accessorised with very soft ankle boots or trainers, docker beanies and cloche hats with integrated scarves.

Coming of age

Colours were also present at Dries Van Noten. The collection featured a deeper palette and a profusion of prints, a true signature of the Belgian house.

"In this second men's collection, I wanted to explore the idea of coming of age," explained designer Julian Klausner.

Now grown up, the children carry with them their "mother's flowers", which appear on coats, the linings of black vinyl jackets of varying lengths, and on kilts. They also wear their "father's coat", a soft, bright orange trench coat or a large green parka.

Trousers come in checks, tartan flannel or even plain wool. Knitwear is also omnipresent, seen in long coats, high-necked jumpers, and sleeveless Oxford-style sweaters. Capes made an appearance, including a grey one encrusted with small jewels.

The looks were completed with Peruvian hats, aviator glasses and high-top boxing shoes.

Rick Owens erects "Tower"

There was a different atmosphere at American designer Rick Owens' show. True to his underground style, the master of gothic presented a collection entitled "Tower" at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. It featured fluid silhouettes with leather coats with large collars, frayed shorts, and giant boots with side pockets. Macramé masks with threads falling to the knees completed the looks.

The collection, in a dark palette as is usual for the designer, also included pieces made of Kevlar. This fibre is five times stronger than steel and is generally used to make bulletproof vests.

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