John Galliano to design menswear at Martin Margiela

London - Maison Margiela has produced four womenswear collections since the appointment of John Galliano last October and will soon see menswear under Galliano's direction.

In a new interview for WWD, Renzo Rosso, president of the parent company of Margiela, discusses how the house has changed since the instalment of its new artistic director.

Martin Margiela changed the rules of the fashion industry

“It’s another company now. You can feel the energy inside, it’s unbelievable,” says Rosso. “It was really necessary to hire someone for the next step because Martin was someone who changed the rules in the fashion industry.”

As well as discussing the change in atmosphere, Rosso confirms rumours that Galliano is working on a men’s line, which will be debuted in mid-2016. While Margiela has debuted two collections of men’s apparel since Galliano’s appointment, the level of his involvement wasn’t clear.

Rosso also stated Galliano is working on a women’s fragrance, which will be released by Margiela’s beauty partner, L’Oréal, in 2017.

Sales have been up 30 percent since Galliano's appointment

Rosso also gives an indication as to the financial ramifications of Galliano’s takeover – revenues are up by more than 30 percent, proving that the designer is as popular with the clients as he is with the critics.

“For me, creativity must be free….This is the key to success,” said Rosso, expanding on his decision to let Galliano interpret Margiela’s codes as he saw fit. “Because if you say, ‘You have to do this and this and this,’ you never succeed. With creativity, you can build a company. Without creativity, you cannot build a company.”

While the profit margins and show reviews pay testament to Galliano’s success, so does the founder of the house, Martin Margiela himself. “I’m so happy you chose a couturier to drive the maison,” he said, according to Rosso, who went on to say, “Martin said to John, ‘Make it your own.’”