Jumpsuits, salt and stripes: key looks from Milan Fashion Week

Milan, Italy - The main shows of Milan Fashion Week concluded on Sunday. It was another season of stunning dresses, impeccable tailoring, leather coats and skirts, and sumptuous handbags. Here are some of the key looks from the spring/summer 2026 collections:

Twenties chic

Ferragamo's artistic director, Maximilian Davis, delved into the 1920s. He presented a chic and colourful collection of Prohibition-era suits and low-waisted dresses with open backs and long fringes, enhanced with a touch of animal print.

"It was a time when everyone was creating a personal space and rebelling against social norms, and that spirit was reflected in the wardrobes," he stated in the show notes.

Antonio Marras also revisited the same era. He imagined writers Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence and Katherine Mansfield on holiday in Sardinia. The runway was made of piles of salt, the island's famous product, which served as beach sand. Models were dressed in patterned dresses and suits, carrying sketchbooks, suitcases and even a violin.

Shirts and stripes

Prada once again drew inspiration from uniforms. The collection featured military-style jumpsuits, shirts worn under fitted-waist dresses and full skirts, all accessorised with long evening gloves.

At Fendi, there were button-down shirt dresses and sheer blouses with tight collars. The mix was described as "both masculine and feminine".

At Tod's, oversized striped shirts were worn over leather miniskirts. More stripes, this time diagonal, appeared on draped dresses and matching handbags in warm, natural tones.

Brightly striped trousers for men and women were paired with loud print shirts. Neon shirts were worn under dark suits, characterising Dario Vitale's debut at Versace.

The house stated that the collection's theme was "an extravagant and simple elegance, designed for a life guided by emotions". Dolce & Gabbana (D&G), for its part, reinterpreted classic men's striped pyjamas. The brand added jewellery details or paired them with black lingerie for a woman moving "between the boudoir and city life".

Actors Meryl Streep and Stanley Tucci from the film 'The Devil Wears Prada' were in the front row. It seems he now wears D&G!

Belts and elastic

Throughout the week, skirts were fluid and jackets had broad shoulders. Trousers were wide-leg but cinched with sportswear-inspired elastic and drawstrings, particularly at Fendi.

At Max Mara, a black elastic band cinched the waist of a floral-print coat. It was also worn close to the body over a pencil skirt or with a voluminous black organza feather dress.

"I wanted a modern, flashy, and sharp element to contrast with anything that could be considered ethereal, delicate, or feminine," explained Ian Griffiths, a designer at Max Mara. He added that there was "something almost fetishistic about it".

Emporio Armani featured kimono-style ties in black or bright colours on tops and trousers, as well as on flowing dresses. At Boss, thin and wider leather belts were worn low on the waist. They accentuated leather jackets with the ends left loose.

All that glitters

Amidst quiet luxury and casual elegance, Milan is also known for its extravagant glamour. This was embodied by Roberto Cavalli, who presented his "Gold Obsession" collection on a golden runway.

Lead designer Fausto Puglisi cited Elizabeth Taylor's Cleopatra as an influence. The collection featured light, form-fitting dresses in shimmering gold, ranging from fluid jersey to coated lace.

The collection "makes no compromises," the brand stated, adding that gold was not just a colour but "an aesthetic vision: precious, bold, and contemporary".

Demna also embraced red-carpet glamour with his first collection for Gucci, presented in a short film starring Demi Moore. The collection included immense faux fur coats transformed into dresses, silver bodysuits, and extravagant gowns. One of these was worn by tennis star Serena Williams on the red carpet.

Shrinking and shortening

"Everything is getting shorter," Missoni explained in its collection notes. Many models wore only bikini bottoms, shorts were rolled up, and mini-dresses became halter-neck T-shirts.

Jumpsuits were coordinated with tops in the brand's signature bold patterns. They were also worn under fitted jackets with bare legs, despite the pouring rain outside.

Jumpsuits were also seen at Fendi, paired with a sporty blue bomber jacket or adorned with flowers. At Tod's, burnt orange underwear was matched with a swimsuit and a printed scarf.