KVIC, Fabindia in tussle over selling clothes in the name of khadi

Now Khadi is in the midst of a controversy with Fabindia and Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC) embroiled in a legal tussel. KVIC has sent a legal notice to Fabindia for continuing to sell garments in the name of Khadi. KVIC’s called it a ‘strongly worded legal notice’ that stressed its ownership over brand Khadi, a symbol of India’s freedom struggle that went on to become the uniform of choice for post-independence politicians and then evolved into a fashion statement.

In fact, KVIC threatened Fabindia with legal action if the latter did not stop the practice immediately. Established in 1960, Fabindia Overseas, an Indian brand, claims to be the country’s largest retail platform for goods produced by artisans who live largely in rural areas. The KVIC notice alleges that Fabindia uses the word ‘Khadi’ on its price tags while calling them ‘Fabindia cotton’ on the labels stuck to the garments. “This misleads consumers,” asserts V K Saxena, Chairperson, KVIC. Following an objection from KVIC, Fabindia has started removing the word ‘khadi’ from the tags of its garments. This procedure is being done on products made of the hand-woven fabric, 18 months after receiving a notice for using the term without permission. Indeed, the procedure is a huge task for Fabindia.

What’s in the law?

According to Saxena, no product can be sold as Khadi without the Khadi Mark tag. Not only that, any private brand or producer of Khadi must buy Khadi from a government cleared Khadi institution. This is the only way to protect Khadi artisans. Brands that put out Khadi products or garments must, in accordance with this existing legal framework, apply for a Khadimark Regulation Certificate.

From 2 October 2016, this procedure was made simpler and faster, according to Saxena. The KVIC website shows a Khadi Registration Seva tag, which clarifies the 45-day process. Rs10,000 as fee for the certificate and a list of 25 spinners and 5 weavers is all we seek. Anyone can sell Khadi as long as they follow KVIC’s checks and balances and follow regulations.

Given KVIC’s increasing assertion of its legal ownership of Khadi, companies like Raymond, for instance, applied for a regulation certification last year to sell Khadi fabrics, according to Saxena. Numerous other Khadi players remain unaware about the obligations they have to KVIC if they use the word Khadi on their tags.

Ambar charkha Khadi

For the aspirant Khadi wearer, its brand value as the fabric of freedom endorsed by the greatest handloom marketer of all times—Mahatma Gandhi—is clear. What’s not clear though is what does Khadi really mean? Is it handloom? Is it handspun and handwoven? Is it okay to accept Ambar Charkha Khadi sold by KVIC and its regulated institutions as authentic Khadi because of the Khadi Mark tag? Legally, the last is correct, but realistically, there are very few Khadi centres that still make handspun, handwoven Khadi.

Revealing details, designer Shani Himanshu of 11:11 Celldsgn sells 100 per cent Khadi creations. Having said that, she didn’t know that one has to register to get access to the Khadi logo, this requires paperwork and submission of fees at KVIC Delhi or Mumbai. All her purchases of Khadi though are from KVIC. Otherwise any weaver can say this is Khadi and it is difficult to know whether it is woven on the Ambar Charkha or an industrial Charkha.