LFW SS22: Simone Rocha

Inspired by the progression of a mother-daughter relationship, Irish designer Simone Rocha introduced a spring/summer line of emphasised proportions and childlike wonder.

The show’s setting, in London’s St. Bartholomew church, was fitting for the whimsical collection, with pieces reminiscent of communion dresses complete with satin ties and intricate embroidery. Rocha’s signature design elements were also highly prominent throughout. Puff-sleeved dresses and exaggerated tulle showcased the designer’s typical essence, with pearls and other jewels adorning the bold pieces.

Delicate embellishments and enlarged ruffles contrasted with the darker side of motherhood that the collection explored. Sleepless nights and general distress were represented through dishevelled styling and mismatched clothing, as well as a selection of nightgowns that loosely hung on the models’ frame. Quilted jackets and dresses mirroring bedding presented an additional attribute to a mothers experience.

Layering gave an added complexity to several looks, either filling out the dresses frame or providing a more form-distorting silhouette. One particular model donned a loose-fitted blazer arranged under an embellished bralette, with an underlying wide tulle skirt finishing off the fit. Others wore drop shoulder cardigans or robe-like pieces as further references to the overall theme.

Accessories provided further contrast to the more delicate looks they were paired with. Bulky, lace-up boots brought a distinct edge to the floaty dresses while some models carried highly structured clasped bags, adding further textural elements to the outfits. Baby teeth necklaces were an alternative accessory choice for some looks, as more of a literal reference to the childhood world.