Martin Margiela's memoirs: the landmark auction set to make history

This summer, on July 9 at 2pm CEST, a historic auction for the fashion world will take place in Paris. For the first time, Martin Margiela, founder of Maison Margiela, is partnering with auctioneers to organise the sale of his personal archives. The date is already shaping up to be a major event for numerous collectors and enthusiasts.

The sale, organised by Parisian auction house Maurice Auction in collaboration with London-based Kerry Taylor Auctions, will feature over 200 lots from designer Martin Margiela's personal archives. The collection covers the period from 1984 to 2008. It ranges from his creations for the Canette d'Or in Antwerp to his departure from Maison Martin Margiela, with a few more recent pieces made during the pandemic.

To please several collectors and institutions

The most remarkable aspect of this auction is the designer's direct involvement. This is the very first time a designer of this stature has partnered with an auction house during his lifetime to offer, sort and authenticate his own personal archives.

“After many years of moving archives from one place to another and lending them for exhibitions, I felt it was time to part with some of my fashion memories,” Martin Margiela said in the press release accompanying the announcement. “After long consideration, it was the idea of pleasing several collectors and institutions that finally convinced me to entrust them to the world.”

Intimate work relics

While the meaning of the word 'archive' has become overused, shifting from a museum term to a genuine fashion trend (such as Kim Kardashian wearing Marilyn Monroe's iconic dress at the 2022 MET Gala), the sale of Martin Margiela's pieces restores the concept to its original depth.

Far from celebrity fetishism or appropriation for communication purposes, this event brings us back to the very essence of the historical record: the raw documentation of a creative process.

Among the pieces in the exhibition catalogue are intimate work relics and objects that bear witness to the history of a house that has greatly influenced the fashion system. These include a 1987 work file from when Martin Margiela was looking for a manufacturer in Italy (estimated between 5,000 and 8,000 euros); a white coat worn by the founder; one of the famous white cotton aprons worn by the house's employees (estimated between 3,000 and 5,000 euros); and Tabi Graffiti from 1991 (estimated between 30,000 and 50,000 euros). Also noteworthy is the sale of the designer's personal telephone, repainted with Meudon white, an object known to connoisseurs and estimated between 3,000 and 5,000 euros.

Léa Bouchet's Hermès wardrobe

The sale will also feature approximately 60 outfits, bags, shoes and fashion accessories from the wardrobe of Léa Bouchet, Martin Margiela's mother. Very close to his mother, who supported him from a young age, the designer gifted her many pieces reflecting his work at Hermès between 1997 and 2003.

“Also presented are the Hermès clothes of my late mother, which have become difficult to keep in perfect condition,” Martin Margiela specified. “These creations, from my tenure from 1997 to 2003 at the eponymous house, require special care despite their very high quality of workmanship and materials.”

Among the Hermès items are shoes from 1998, about which he states: “For my first autumn/winter 1998-1999 collection, I focused on comfort. At the time, Pierre Hardy had created a trainer called ‘Quick’, which I integrated into my silhouettes. I also wanted a heeled version for a different walk. The idea was to design a court shoe that captured the spirit of the Hermès trainer. I opted for crepe soles and a sturdy heel.”

Exhibition designed as an unpacking

Before the sale, an exhibition organised by Bob Verhelst, a long-time friend of the designer, will immerse professionals and visitors in a scenography reminiscent of a small early 20th-century workshop. This approach will allow for a direct experience with the materiality and fragility of the objects, the majority of which have never been revealed to the public.

According to Alex Baddeley, fashion specialist and auctioneer at Kerry Taylor Auctions: “This auction offers unprecedented access to the personal archives of a designer whose reputation is as enigmatic as it is profound. Martin's innovative designs and runway presentations have changed the landscape of fashion forever.”