Menswear trends for fall/winter 2027/28: volume, lightness, and nature

Trend forecaster Edwin van den Hoek sees several shifts within menswear for fall/winter 2027/28. Silhouettes are becoming looser, materials are being used in new ways and traditional boundaries between masculine and feminine are blurring. Simultaneously, there is a growing need for nature, functionality and authenticity, Van den Hoek explains over coffee during a conversation at the Eye Film Museum in Amsterdam.

Van den Hoek identifies four movements for the season: Elegant, Protected, Secluded and Creative.

“Ultimately, clients naturally want to know which trousers and jackets are coming, in what colours and materials. However, it is important not only to explain what is changing in menswear, but also which societal and cultural developments underpin these trends.”

Van den Hoek deliberately seeks out the extremes within a fashion season. According to him, the four themes show different directions that can coexist.

Maximum volume, minimum weight

A development within the ‘Protected’ trend theme revolves around new proportions. According to Van den Hoek, jackets, trousers and down items in particular are becoming increasingly larger and more voluminous. The striking thing is that the large silhouette does not automatically have to be heavy.

“It looks very big, but it is very light to wear,” he says. Technical materials make it possible to give clothing a heavy or even bulky appearance, while the weight remains limited in practice. He adds that accessories and shoes are also getting that combination of a voluminous look and a low weight. A similar development can be seen in the FW26/27 show by Dior Men, where Jonathan Anderson plays with exaggerated volumes and technical outerwear.

Materials are being constructed in new ways. For example, by fusing fabrics together under the influence of heat, padded or inflated structures can be created without the need for traditional stitching. This keeps the fabric waterproof and allows the shape of the surface to be influenced at the same time.

Escape to nature

As a counter-reaction to the fast-paced, digital world, the need for peace and seclusion is growing within the ‘Secluded’ trend theme, as dubbed by Van den Hoek. Outdoor activities, nature and travel to quiet destinations are gaining significance, according to him.

In menswear, this development is reflected in functional clothing, technical materials and an earthy colour palette. Brown, green and neutral tones predominate, while soft and hairy qualities such as faux fur and teddy add volume and tactility.

At the same time, natural dyes are gaining ground. Experiments with tea, coffee, corn and tree bark are being conducted to create new colour nuances. According to Van den Hoek, the limitations of these dyes actually produce a richness of colour gradations.

What also stands out in this theme, according to Van den Hoek, is the use of fur – not as a material, but as a print. A photograph of fur, for example, can be printed on nylon or a silk-like quality, playing with the boundary between reality and surrealism. This can be seen, among other places, in the FW26 collection from the Italian fashion house Mordecai.

All about layers

Within the ‘Creative’ trend theme, traditional styles are approached in a new way. For example, the preppy style is given a contemporary look by combining classic items with unexpected layers. This focus on recombining and stacking clothes is also visible around the neck. Van den Hoek sees different layers coming together there: a turtleneck, over it a shirt, a waistcoat and then a jacket. Layering thus becomes an important part of the silhouette in itself.

Fur and other hairy materials also appear frequently around the collar. Van den Hoek sees this not only on the catwalk, but also on the street. He finds the latter particularly interesting. “On the street, you see that people are consciously thinking about it themselves, rather than having a whole styling team or commercially driven idea behind a certain look.”

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In addition to traditional applications, such as the leather jacket or bag, leather takes on a more refined role in FW27/28. For example, we see leather as a material for a shirt, a collar or a patch pocket. In this way, the material becomes a detail within an otherwise classic garment.

Traditional gender boundaries are blurring

Designers are increasingly experimenting with shapes and materials previously considered feminine. Think of skirts, very wide shorts that almost look like a skirt, aprons and flowing and transparent materials.

According to Van den Hoek, the development is not about a shift that Dutch brands must necessarily follow, but about broadening the possibilities within menswear collections. Thus, the traditional division between men's and women's clothing becomes less strict, allowing items like skirts to become part of the offering for men.

Van den Hoek sees this development particularly in Asian brands from Japan, China, Korea and Taiwan, among others. According to him, they are less bound by traditional Western patterns and therefore experiment more with the boundaries between masculine and feminine. This tension can be seen, for example, in the FW26 collection Black Hole by Comme des Garçons Homme Plus.

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He does not expect a massive shift towards skirts. “I don't believe that if you stand on the ferry here in Amsterdam-Noord, you will suddenly see all men wearing skirts. However, I do believe a shift is taking place,” says the trend forecaster.

The colour palette for FW27/28: these are the trend colours according to Van den Hoek

Despite the different directions, the colour palette for the entire FW27/28 season remains relatively calm, according to Van den Hoek. Various shades of grey form an important basis, not only in clothing but also in store interiors. He cites a pilot store from Stone Island in Milan as an example, where different shades of grey were used in both the interior and the clothing.

In contrast, there are warm neutrals such as sand, beige, brown and cognac, complemented by deeper shades of red and various shades of green, from army to brighter green. It is precisely within these calm colour palettes that there is room for contrast. The warm, subdued base is combined with a single bold colour, such as almost fluorescent green, bright blue or an acid-like yellow hue.

In addition, pink is increasingly seen as less of a taboo in menswear, according to Van den Hoek.

For FW27/28, Van den Hoek therefore does not expect completely new menswear, but rather a reinterpretation of existing codes. Classic masculinity is becoming softer and volumes are getting larger but lighter. Technical functionality is given a more fashionable interpretation. Fur, leather and other rich materials are being used in new ways. At the same time, a striking contrast colour ensures that the subdued colour palette does not become completely neutral.