New knots and shadow play: The SS26 highlights of Seoul Fashion Week

For its 25th anniversary, Seoul Fashion Week presented itself this season not only as a stage for local labels, but also as a seismograph for upcoming trends. Between experimental draping, streetwear statements and subtle borrowings from underwear as a styling element, a panorama unfolded that celebrated the creative diversity of the South Korean capital.

For spring/summer 2026, the official calendar included 14 runway shows – including big names like Caruso and Andersson Bell – as well as 74 showrooms where brands presented their collections to buyers. A special highlight was the collaboration with the Fashion Council Germany. Twelve labels such as Lueder, Richert Beil and Sia Arnika presented their designs in the Berlin Showroom, bringing new voices to the South Korean metropolis and at the same time gaining valuable insights into the Korean market.

Whether any of the Berlin-based designers will conquer the catwalks in Seoul in the future remains to be seen. What is certain, however, is that the city has plenty of trends to offer even without this prospect.

FashionUnited has summarised the highlights of the SS26 season for you.

Ties, knotted anew

The catwalks of Seoul Fashion Week saw the reinterpretation of an accessory that has long since ceased to be firmly anchored in the context of formal menswear: the tie. In Seoul, the former status symbol once again became a plaything of post-gender styling codes and was found in a variety of different contexts.

Sometimes loosely looped around the neck, sometimes draped sideways or even worn twice – the styling possibilities seem far from exhausted for designers when it comes to the former office accessory. Caruso put two ties around one model's neck and combined them with an otherwise almost ordinary look of an oversized shirt and denim, while Andersson Bell styled a crookedly knotted tie with a frayed waistcoat, a deliberately crumpled shirt and flower-trimmed trousers. Big Park offered a pattern mix of striped tie, checked shirt and wide pleated trousers.

Transparency

As with ties, transparency has been ubiquitous in recent years – especially on the red carpet. In Seoul, however, the trend gained new depth and direction. Instead of serving as pure provocation or a glamorous element, transparency was reinterpreted as a means of layering, subversion and narrative.

For SS26, transparency sometimes appeared as a deconstructed form of tailoring, sometimes as emphasised delicacy. Andersson Bell questioned the definition of a business look and combined a transparent mesh longsleeve with a classic jacket, while Caruso deconstructed a jersey jacket with transparent mesh layering. Kwak Hyun Joo opted for romanticised transparency in candy colours with a lilac two-piece consisting of a crop top and skirt, including transparent inserts, ruffles and asymmetrical layers.

Underwear as a styling element

The interplay of underwear as a visible styling element also found its place on the catwalks in Seoul. Instead of being understood as a hidden layer, it was deliberately moved to the centre of the looks – sometimes as a sporty detail, sometimes as a subversive statement.

The brand New Wave Boys combined a corset-like off-the-shoulder top with high-cut shorts and bloomers, while Ulkin showed an almost classic combination of bikini top, open waistcoat and transparent mesh. Arts presented a more experimental approach. The label simply printed underwear onto a white T-shirt, changing not only its purpose but also the model's proportions.

Draped ruching

In Seoul, some labels opted for sophisticated experiments with texture and silhouette. Particularly striking was the use of adjustable ruffle details, which gave fabrics a lively, almost sculptural surface.

One ensemble by Arts featured a shirt dress that was reinterpreted with laces and cords, giving classic stripes an almost futuristic dynamism and volume. Another outfit by the label Lie played with contrasts: A navy two-piece consisting of a top and miniskirt was given a sporty-urban interpretation through fine ruching and accessories such as a mesh cap. Draping was used in a comparatively traditional way on a light blue slip dress by Mmam, whose side ruching not only brought movement to the material, but also allowed skin to flash through thanks to a high slit.

Shadow play

While colour, shine and extravagance set the tone in many places, some labels consciously opted for darkness. But instead of disappearing into the shadows, they used black as a stage for precise tailoring and subtle, personal touches.

At Big Park, this was evident in a dress whose austere bodice was reminiscent of classic tailoring – almost like a fusion with a traditional Hanbok – while a flowing, pleated skirt completed the silhouette. Arts presented a monochrome, almost sporty ensemble that was surprisingly playful thanks to oversized bows. Sling Stone's look, with its long coat, clean lines and oversized proportions, formed a counterpoint to the explosion of colour from other designers, exuding an almost sculptural austerity.