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Power and ease define Net-a-Porter’s upcoming AW23 season

By Rachel Douglass


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Credits: (From left) AW23 collections of Alexander McQueen, Ann Demeulemeester and Loewe. Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight

It’s no secret that a fresh take on luxury was present during the autumn/winter 2023 runways, whether that be minimalist takes or wearable staples. It was these qualities, in fact, that Net-a-Porter let guide its buying period for the season, as it looks to cater more pointedly towards its so-called ‘extremely important people’ (EIPs), a group that make up 3 percent of its consumer base yet contribute to 40 percent of its sales.

In order to build up this sector and ensure this “robust” consumer group invests more in their wardrobe, Net-a-Porter’s marketing director, Libby Page, said that it would be elevating its assortment, expanding its loyalty programme and growing its circularity offering. While all of these aspects are to be considered, the platform expanded on its efforts to define its product offering in a seasonal presentation on AW23 trends hosted by Page, who spoke on Net-a-Porter’s way of engaging with EIPs.

FashionUnited took a closer look into Net-a-Porter’s defining trends for autumn/winter 2023 and what they could mean for seasons beyond.

Wearable and minimal

(From left) AW23 collections by Gucci, Loewe and Tove. Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Much of Page’s focus was centred around a consistent “modern luxury” theme, which she said had been present both on the runway and in real life, whether that be media reports of “quiet luxury”, the final season of HBO’s Succession or the closely watched trial of Gwyneth Paltrow. Page added: “This mood has reached the peak of consumerism, and is showing no signs of slowing down for us. Though I have to say this is not a trend or a new wave, rather it's a shopping mindset that our trailblazing EIPs have had since SS23.”

For the coming season, Page elaborated on this observation in what she dubbed the “wearable necessities” trend, with the likes of white shirts, black coats and tank tops exhibiting the epitome of luxury for AW23. While there were some established brands stoking the flames of this trend, it was newer labels that were really making waves, including the likes of Tove which made its debut in London. Similarly, Page’s “modern minimalism” trend also touched on clean cut fashion, albeit with references to eras of the past. She added: “Devoid of frippery, modern minimalism gave our favourite decade, the 90’s, a cool, architectural and elevated makeover. The silhouettes, monochromatic colour palette, and hardware details did all the talking, transforming 90’s inspirations and making them feel more modern than ever before.”

(From left) AW23 collections by Ferragamo, Gabriela Hearst and Nensi Dojaka. Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Effortless eveningwear

(From left) AW23 collections by Loewe, Ann Demeulemeester and Tove. Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight

Like the prior trend, Page also noted a distinct, effortless essence within eveningwear, as slews of designers used fashion weeks to present a fresh take on the category. Speaking on this, Page said: “In keeping with the simplistic tone of the season, we saw a continued paired back and sleek approach to eveningwear on the runway and this is already translating across to the red carpets where stylists and celebrities have taken a much more understated approach.” The likes of Ann Demeulemeester and Loewe each showed flowing silky gowns with simple silhouettes, forming what Page stated was a form of “old school Hollywood glamour”. She added: “The runway to red-carpet turnaround has never been swifter, it has become prime marketing real estate and designers who aren’t already known for eveningwear are recognising this opportunity.”

Suiting and strong detailing

(From left) AW23 collections by Proenza Schouler, Saint Laurent and Chloé. Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight

A notable observation by Page was that over the fashion season, 13 different designers opened their shows with their own interpretations of a black suit and white shirt combo, setting the tone for tailoring’s return to the runway. She continued: “It was all about traditional suiting, taking cues from men’s tailoring – polished, precision cuts paired with black tie accessories. The looks felt fresh off Savile Row and had an extremely androgynous feel, promoting the idea of gender neutrality.” Page also stated that she expected this trend to appeal to both Net-a-Porter and Mr Porter clients alike, driving more crossover shopping. “This mood felt like a powerful nod to the acceptance of women taking inspiration from men’s wardrobing,” she added.

Detailing was also an imperative part of the season, seen in the use of blanketing, cinched waists, hosiery and roll necks, among other things. Distinctly stepping away from the previously mentioned casual trends, Page said: “This season may have been one of simplicity, but it is the attention to detail that is making a big impact. Designers gave us interesting styling details and accessories to really bring their collections to life and show us new ways to wear these wardrobe staples.”

At Net-a-Porter, the platform is hoping to aid shoppers in adopting this trend through upcoming features on its app, Digital Wardrobe. Via the service, customers will be able to utilise an outfit builder, allowing them to swipe and discover new pieces and learn how to style them with past purchases. “Once again, we’re showing our customers how to do more but with less,” Page concluded.

(From left) AW23 collections by Alexander McQueen, Valentino and Versace. Images: Launchmetrics Spotlight
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