Saint Laurent takes men to the seventies; Louis Vuitton proposes eclecticism

Designer Anthony Vaccarello's seventies-inspired vision for Saint Laurent's menswear collection and the eclectic musical celebration from Louis Vuitton, under the ever-restless direction of Pharrell Williams, marked the first day of Paris Men's Fashion Week.

‘For summer 2026, Anthony Vaccarello evokes a moment suspended in time (...) where escape becomes elegance, and desire becomes a language,’ explained the collection’s press release.

High-waisted, slim-fitting trousers, paired with shirts featuring wide shoulder pads, two flap pockets, and ties invariably tucked inside, were presented in a slow, deliberate manner.

Semi-transparent turtleneck polos, sometimes combined with a foulard, and the traditional trench parka, one of Yves Saint Laurent's signature pieces, also featured. The colour palette was predominantly soft: apple green, various shades of mauve, combined across blouses, trousers, and belts, as well as sky blue.

Men in shorts, nonchalantly paired with double-breasted blazers, always with wide shoulders, also appeared. ‘The silhouettes are sculpted, not exaggerated,’ Vaccarello explained in his statement of intent.

A burgundy half-zip raincoat also stood out. The show took place at the Bourse de Commerce in Paris, which has been converted into a centre for billionaire François Pinault's contemporary art collection.

The models walked around a water installation by French artist Céleste Boursier-Mougenot, consisting of a huge, 18-metre diameter basin filled with water and a blue bottom, in which porcelain bowls floated and collided with each other.

Among the notable guests were film director Francis Ford Coppola and actors Rami Malek and Sam Rockwell.

Yearning to explore

Designer and musician Pharrell Williams invited his fans and friends to a large party outside the Centre Georges Pompidou, which was closed for refurbishment. Williams makes no secret of the fact that the French brand's menswear shows are a pretext for his restless spirit and desire to explore.

There is no clear line, but rather a desire to offer the full palette of possibilities for dressing the monogram brand's fans.

Cotton, synthetic, or corduroy suits with flared trousers; multi-striped shirts; an explosion of colours; and a juxtaposition of accessories, from thick neck chains to caps, rings, and leather bags shaped like small spaceships.

In front of celebrities such as Beyoncé, her husband Jay Z, Bradley Cooper, and Argentinian chef Mauro Colagreco, Williams alternated shorts with parkas, sweatshirts with loafers and long socks.

There were metallic raincoats and well-padded anoraks, in case the customer decides to venture into colder climates. Thick-soled sandals, cream-coloured cargo trousers, and leather jackets for those opting for a safari look were also presented.

Williams used a gospel choir and a large orchestra for the show, as on previous occasions, with a wide musical palette, from classical to Japanese hip hop.

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