Simone Rocha debuts first fully-formed menswear collection at LFW

Irish designer Simone Rocha took to the historic grounds of The Old Bailey, the Central Criminal Justice Court, for her London Fashion Week show this season.

During the event, Rocha displayed a selection of her typically voluminous pieces alongside the debut of her first fully-formed menswear collection for spring/summer 2023.

Models paced through the marble runway to the sound of opera music, sporting capacious tulle garments exhibited together with items that took on more utilitarian silhouettes.

The result saw the meshing between masculine and feminine throughout the line, with military-like khakis colliding with delicate floral prints and embroidery.

A significant part of the collection consisted of deconstructed corserty, veils and bows, present in the menswear as much as the womenswear.

The techniques – signature elements of the Central Saint Martins graduate – were applied to exaggerated forms and shapes, shown in items like a bubbled up bomber jacket or layered headpieces.

Other technical practices included extreme ruching, used for gloves as well as long-line dresses, strategically-placed zips and large buckles, each of which contributed to the formation of inflated silhouettes and disrupted proportions.

While the incorporated styles are to be expected for Rocha’s womenswear looks, her menswear also stuck closely to her staple design values.

The men on the runway also donned pieces that played with shape, featured intricate embroidery or implemented layered skirt-trouser combinations that challenged gender norms.