Sustainable sneakers: Materials, production, and the future of footwear

The footwear sector, including sneakers, is incorporating sustainability initiatives, as these products are now a constant in fashion collections and are increasingly worn for various occasions. Sneakers are the focus of research and experimental projects by material producers for sustainable, recyclable, or partially recyclable components.

Saverio Lapini, co-founder and chief executive officer of Ollum srl, an Arezzo, Italy-based consultancy specializing in corporate sustainability, discussed the current state of sustainability in sneaker production with FashionUnited.

Production of sneakers in the sustainability landscape

The sneaker segment traditionally uses synthetic materials such as rubber or polyester, derived from petroleum. Companies are now transitioning to natural materials like hemp yarns and alternatives to conventional plastic materials, which include compostable, recyclable, and biobased options, due to sustainability requirements.

Change in the production approach

Natural materials are not always suitable for sneaker applications due to durability and mechanical quality requirements. Biobased rubbers are created from natural materials through processes similar to those used for synthetic materials. This allows companies to use existing machinery for production

Effectiveness of this system from an environmental point of view

Sneakers produced using these methods can have an environmental impact approximately one third less than conventional ones. However, two issues exist.

1. Problems with this system

The alternative materials may have a shorter lifespan compared to traditional materials. This means that while the shoe's immediate impact decreases, its overall lifespan is not extended, which does not change the production model.

2. Right path for sustainability

The use of natural materials is a step in the right direction. Subsequent steps involve focusing on shoe durability and the after-sales phase. Many brands do not offer repair services for sneakers, despite consumer willingness to repair them to extend their life.

Customer's desire to change their look

Fashion brands have a role in making the "old and repaired" aesthetic appealing. Presenting patched garments on the catwalk could advance this concept.

Pricing of sustainable accessories

Natural materials for sustainable sneakers generally cost more due to a lack of economies of scale. Producers, primarily in Italy's Marche region and Southeast Asia, operate in niche markets that are not subject to the same price competition as other suppliers. However, material costs account for approximately 20 percent of the final sneaker price.

Economies of scale through increased quantities of sustainable sneakers

The reality is that many companies currently offer only one sustainable model or line making it difficult to scale up.

Lack of vision on sustainability

Sustainability initiatives often lack a long-term vision, culture, and expertise within companies. This can lead to prepared young professionals leaving organizations when they observe this absence of vision.