SPFW N57 spotlights original Brazilian fashion

The 57th edition of the São Paulo Fashion Week (SPFW) - entitled 'Sintonia', which took place at the Iguatemi São Paulo and JK Iguatemi shopping centres, came to an end on Sunday, April 14. This season the event featured 27 fashion shows, 11 fewer than in the previous edition, but which highlighted the importance of brands that are considered small, more unique, with a strong artisanal appeal.

From the opening, with Aluf parading to the sound of the Heliópolis Symphony Orchestra, to Amapô, which closed the event (after a last-minute change - it was scheduled to precede João Pimenta's show at the Martinelli building), the runway shows can be broken down into the following trends.

Sophisticated handicrafts

The luxury of handmade crochet, knitting and embroidery, some made with fish scales, as seen by newcomer Maurício Duarte, set the tone.

Catarina Mina's collection was aligned with the work of craftswomen, recalling the richness of lace from the northeast of Brazil, in filé, bobbin and labyrinth lace. Weider Silvério, a veteran of the event, presented a collection whose strong point was crochet. Marina Bitu brought straw fringes, fabrics dyed with pomegranate peel and macro sequins made from bioplastic.

Preciousness also featured in Lino Vilaventura's show, which brought textures obtained from pleats, embroidery and patchworks and, for men, monochrome looks that overlapped in trousers with pleated skirts and jackets with hoods. Fabric petal fringes stood out at Thear, as did cracked earth prints in gold on the hem of trousers. Tapestry was the basis for a godê skirt at Dendezeiro.

For several seasons now, comfortable modelling has generally taken the place of tight-fitting garments. Almost all of the collections featured this type of shape, with straight trousers like in LED, at Rafael Caetano.

Almost all the collections featured this type of shape, with straight trousers, as in LED, by Rafael Caetano. The functionality of multiple pockets surfaced in many of the collections, especially in the form of trousers reminiscent of the cargo style of the 80s, but with contemporary touches.

Igor Dadona brought exquisite tailoring, as did Gefferson Vila Nova's men's wear. João Pimenta came up with wide trousers with large lace pockets and chequered fabric, innovating menswear. Forca Studio, for the first time, presented sportswear pieces, with organic cut-outs, mixed with tailoring.

Sparkles, fringes and transparencies

Sparkles appeared in several pieces, such as Patrícia Vieira's collection, which used gold leather in a meticulous work of applied petals. Newcomer Reptília brought the discreet shine of velvet in more fluid pieces.

Sparkles appeared in several designs, such as as part of Patrícia Vieira's collection, which used golden leather in a meticulous work of applied petals. Newcomer Reptília brought the discreet shine of velvet in more fluid pieces. Lilly Sarti came with fringes and metallic leather, with comfortable modelling in a sophisticated collection.

Cria Costura showed glitter in glamorous pieces. Glória Coelho presented pieces with fringes obtained from fabric cut-outs, subtle transparencies and here and there loose straps, obtaining interesting volumes. Lino Vilaventura showed transparencies mixed with glitter. André Lima returned after a 13-year absence and exaggerated his necklines, leaving exposed breasts, treading the line between sexy and vulgar.

This article was originally published on FashionUnited.BR. Translation and edit from Portuguese into English by Veerle Versteeg.