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SPFW SS24 or fashion as a reflection of contemporary issues

By Marta De Divitiis


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Meninos Rei, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

The 55th Edition of SPFW - São Paulo Fashion Week - took place from May 25 to May 28, at three different locations in Brazil. On May 22, designer João Pimenta held the pre-opening of the show, presenting a commemorative collection of his 20 years of work, in a parade at the Teatro Municipal de São Paulo, in downtown São Paulo. Altogether there were 31 live shows and 10 fashion films.

The diversity of models, already consolidated since the last edition, was extended to the regional diversity of brands, bringing newcomers from different parts of the country. There were new brands from Ceará state in the north east (Marina Bitu and David Lee), from Bahia state, also located in the north east(Gefferson Vila Nova) and from the city of Rio de Janeiro (The Paradise), as well as the São Paulo-based Forca Studio.

The event, as a whole, seeks to strengthen fashion as a platform for social causes, such as inclusion and diversity. It is worth remembering that the creative accelerator Cria Costura, presented an exhibition at event venue Komplexo Tempo, with pieces produced in the third edition of the program, held in Brasilândia and Cidade Tiradentes. The program, created by INMODE- National Institute of Fashion, Design and Creative Economy, and by the Municipal Secretariat of Economic Development and Labor, identifies and promotes talents, transforming technical sewing skills into value-added skills.

On the catwalks of this edition, the public saw a reflection of the trends presented during the previous season - laminated materials, glitter, comfortable modelling, plus vibrant shades, much more used now, forming a rainbow palette, which alludes to LGBTQIA+ issues. Brown and its sub-tonalities came to stay, providing an earthy and cosy atmosphere. It was a kind of continuation of the catwalk presentations during the FW23 edition and the issues previously raised, showing that fashion reflects and allows us to discuss social and political concerns and questions.

Santa Resistência, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

The Paradise, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Isaac Silva, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Gefferson Vila Nova, photo: Gabriel Cappelletti

Dendezeiro, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Thear, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Igor Dadona, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Colours and prints

Vibrant colours disrupted the monotony of neutral black and white, which appeared on practically all the catwalks. Bright red emerged imposing at Santa Resistencia and multicoloured prints brought life to the catwalk at Meninos Rei, The Paradise and Isaac Silva. At Igor Dadona there was a plethora of flowers in round shapes. Almost all brands presented some monochrome looks, such as Gefferson Vila Nova. The earthy tones outlined Dendezeiro's pieces and unfolded in Thear's beige.

Walério Araújo, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Patricia Viera, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Apartamento 03, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Glitter and laminated materials

Reinforcing the designs presented during the previous season, sparkles and laminated materials remain firmly present in the SPFW collections. Designer Walério Araújo, who paid tribute to former Brazilian model and presenter Elke Maravilha, used glitter in various ways: from subtle pastel sequins to vibrant purple looks. In addition, we saw laminated leather, which Patricia Viera worked as if in patchwork on canvas. Apartamento 03 presented laminated leather in pleated jackets and skirts. The fringes of João Pimenta, in tubes provided a discreet brightness, as well as the embroidery on lace.

LED, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

João Pimenta, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Minisis, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Marina Bitu, photo: Gustavo Scatena/Agência Fotosite

Transparencies and frills

Transparencies appeared in a more subtle way at Fernanda Yamamoto, and in other more explicit ways at LED. João Pimenta dared to bring the transparency of embroidered white lace to male territory. The frills came in various forms, both horizontal and vertical. They were present at Minisis and Marina Bitu, as well as other brands.

Fernanda Yamamoto, photo: Gustavo Scatena/Agência Fotosite

Foz, photo Felipe Russo

Greg Joey, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Rafael Caetano, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Forca Studio, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

Comfortable modelling and broad lines

Even in a more luxurious way, as exemplified at Fernanda Yamamoto, comfort appears in various guises. At the newcomer Foz, it occurs with a basic look of trousers and blouse, or even in the wide range of dresses. At Greg Joey, both male and female, in overalls and trousers and shirt. Rafael Caetano created the comfort through light fabrics and loose modelling. Forca Studio in the t-shirt, shorts and tailored trousers.

Ponto Firme, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

David Lee, photo: Marcelo Soubhia/Agência Fotosite

Weider Silverio, photo: Zé Takahashi/Agência Fotosite

The value of handmade

Handmade crafts are still in high demand, in a constant upward trend. Ponto Firme brought a whole collection in crochet, now with the addition of technological materials, more sophisticated. Another designer that used crochet in an elegant way, in the form of a total look, was the newcomer David Lee. Fuxico, the ancient art of using fabric cut-outs, was used beautifully by Weider Silverio. And even in the skirt mentioned above, by Dendezeiro, we can see evidence of handcrafted work.

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