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SS24 Menswear fashion trends: A buyer’s guide

By Jayne Mountford


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Dsquared2 resort 24, Dior, Rhude, Paul Smith ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

This month sees the start of the men’s buying season for spring/summer 2024. The Italian trade show, Pitti Immagine Uomo will be held from June 13 to 16, Next up is Milan menswear fashion week, June 17 to 21 and Paris men’s fashion week, June 20 to 25 which will include arguably the most anticipated show of the season, if not the year, when Pharrell Williams presents his first show for Louis Vuitton. From relaxed tailoring and preppy style to double denim and strong outerwear choices, here are the top trends buyers should look out for.

Suit Yourself

Menswear has slowly shifted from the slim-fit tailoring promoted for so long by Hedi Slimane, towards a looser silhouette. Suit jackets have become more relaxed, and pants, baggier. Here are four examples from spring 23 that will go forward.

Giorgio Armani ss23

Giorgio Armani ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 8: A relaxed grey/blue six-button DB suit with a shawl collared jacket and overlong pants shown over a shirt with a geometric print.

Rhude ss23 designer: Rhuigi Villaseñor

Rhude ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 40: A cream suit with a narrow black pinstripe: a relaxed DB four-button jacket and straight pants over a matching vest.

Paul Smith ss23

Paul Smith ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 4: A brown check suit with an overlong jacket and pleat front shorts over a v neck vest.

Versace ss23

Versace ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 2: A suit in variegated burgundy, navy and white stripes with a broad shouldered blazer and relaxed fit pants. Accessories included snakeskin boots and a gold key chain.

Prep School

It might be borrowed from the Brits, but there is nothing more American than ‘preppy’ style. Formerly promoted by Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, modern day designers the world over are embracing the look. Here are two examples from spring 23 and two from the recent resort 24 collections.

Kenzo ss23 - designer Nigo

Kenzo ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 22: a striped seersucker suit with a two-button blazer and Bermuda shorts in a variety of colors including blue, yellow, green and red, accessorized with mismatched socks and white loafers.

Kenzo ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 32: a scoop necked sweater vest with a blue and green fair isle pattern and baggy cream-colored pants. Accessories included a green baker boy cap, yellow neckerchief and red thong sandals.

MGSM ss23 - designer Massimo Giorgetti

MSGM SS23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 12: a layered look included an oversized rugby shirt with a broad hot pink and black stripe shown over blue striped shirt and shorts. Accessories included MGSM branded sneakers.

Dior Men resort 24 – designer Kim Jones

Dior Men ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 24: a lilac-colored vee neck sweater with an argyle pattern including red, brown and burgundy diamonds over a striped shirt and shown with baggy pants. Accessories included a messenger bag and Dior logo sneakers.

Dsquared2 resort 24 – designers Dean and Dan Caten

Dsquared2 resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 6: a sweater knit polo short in variegated pink, red and blue stripes and flared jeans with pieced-in star patches. Accessories included a brown belt with a gold buckle, a gold chain charm necklace and light brown boots.

Top Coat

The spring/summer in-store season drops range from January to May which necessitates a range of styles in the outerwear category. This includes trenches, technical raincoats and light coats. The spring 23 collections provided many examples that will go forward into the spring 24 season.

Bluemarble ss23 – designer: Anthony Alvarez

Bluemarble ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 29: a long raincoat in a light brown technical fabric with matching pants; accessories included an animal print scarf and blue moccasins.

Prada ss23 – designers: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

Prada ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 18: A three-button khaki raincoat shown over a pink and white gingham coat and leather separates. Accessories included black leather ankle boots.

Martine Rose ss23

Martine Rose ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 1: a classic khaki DB six-button belted trench coat shown over double denim and accessorized with a dark denim baseball cap and white sneakers.

Zegna ss23 – designer: Alessandro Sartori

Zegna ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 26: A technical nylon raincoat in yellow was layered over a clear version and a yellow sweater in a herringbone stitch was shown with straight white sweatpants and sneakers.

Good Jeans

Skinny jeans are relegated to the past in favor of styles that range from straight to flared to outright baggy. Meanwhile, double denim continues to resonate as both a staple and a trend-driven option.

Dsquared2 resort 24 – designers Dean and Dan Caten

Dsquared2 resort 24/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 24: Heavily embellished and ripped cargo pocket blue jeans were matched to a classic jacket over a grey zip front hoodie and a second denim jacket with crystal fringe. Accessories included Silver jewelry, a baseball cap and logo sneakers.

JW Anderson ss23

JW Anderson ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 31: Anderson updated a pair of classic blue denim low rise jeans by adding a crinkle effect finish, shown with a black and red asymmetric windbreaker and logo branded underwear (early ‘nineties style) and accessorized with black, blue and white sneakers.

MSGM ss23 - designer Massimo Giorgetti

MSGM ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 5: a patch pocket shirt and baggy fit jeans were both rendered in pale blue denim with a mid-blue stencil print shown over another blue denim shirt

Prada ss23 – designers: Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons

Prada ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 31: for those consumers looking for a slimmer denim silhouette, Prada provided an appealing alternative last spring season, presenting classic jeans and a jacket in a soft blue wash.

In the Pink

While the hot pink of Barbiecore is still trending, look out for a dustier shade of pink. Once called ‘millennial pink,’ it has re-emerged for use in the casual market.

Mike Amiri ss23

Amiri ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 34: a textured cotton camp shirt over a satin-finish top and baggy waffle-knit shorts. Accessories included a cream-colored leather bucket hat, bag and sneakers.

Neil Barrett ss23

Courtesy/Neil Barrett

Look 16: A dusty pink slimline jean jacket and matching cargo pocket pants in a fabric with a shiny surface, accessorized with high-top white sneakers.

Y Project ss23 – designer: Glenn Martens

Y Project ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 26: An oversized dusty pink shirt with patch pockets over a matching tee shirt and baggy cargo pocket pants.

Zegna ss23 – designer: Alessandro Sartori

Zegna ss23/Launchmetrics Spotlight

Look 7: a collarless sweatshirt rendered in a linen/paper mix matched to relaxed fit pants and accessorized with rimless sunglasses and grey sneakers.