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SS24 trends: ‘Ultra Elevated Basics’ and ‘Quest for innovation'

By Huw Hughes


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Pure London Catwalk Credits: Hyve Group

Computer assisted creations and digital textile design are paving the way for more sustainable products, and will help shape trends for the spring/summer 2024 season, according to Malaika Ewande, the founder and creative director of trends bureau Vesuvius.

Ewande was attending Pure London - which ran from Sunday July 16 to Tuesday July 18, offering brands, retailers, buyers, and other industry professionals an insight into the trends that will shape the upcoming summers’ fashion.

Two mega trends will dominate the SS24 season, according to Ewande: ‘Quest for innovation’, which is related to the rise of AI and digital materials, and ‘Ultra Elevated Basics’, which stems from the desire for quality materials and fashion with longevity. Those two overarching trends can then be further broken down into four key trends, which Ewande outlined for FashionUnited.

Tech Artistry

This trend is inspired by the use of 3D and innovative fabrics, while drawing inspiration from textures from the natural world. Colours here combine neon pops of yellow and pink, with vibrant metallics in gold and lilac, with green tones rooted in nature. “Formal silhouettes explore virtual movement, shapes can be reworked, destroyed and rebuilt, whilst the casual takes a bold and creative route for an ‘elf-like feel’,” Ewande said.

Driven by more environmentally conscious and tech savvy millennials and Gen-Zs, “the digital realm is embedded in the search for innovation, and sustainability in digital fashion is immense”, Ewande said, adding that digital garments have a 97 percent smaller footprint than physical ones.

Pure London CatwalkCredits: Pure London Catwalk
Pure London Catwalk Credits: Hyve Group

Romantic Wanderer

This next trend is the direct antithesis to the previous one; it is the “embodiment of summer” - soft, romantic, feminine, dreamy. The colours of this trend eschew traditional pinks and opt instead for bright coral, moss greens, rich burgundies, tonal greys, and pops of blue hues.

Cashmere, embroidery, ruffles, feathers, soft florals, and light fabrics set the scene for this trend, which Ewande describes as dignified and contemporary yet delicate. Formalwear here celebrates romantic opulence through elevated craftsmanship, while casualwear is directed towards softened classics and clean lines.

Pure London Catwalk Credits: Hyve Group
Pure London Catwalk Credits: Hyve Group

Soothing Luxury

This trend celebrates muted taste, minimalism, and quality; it is smooth and geometric and offers a “young and fresh approach to luxury”. It draws inspiration from brutalists and architecture. Its colour palette combines copper and gold textures with elemental shades of stone grey, green, and browns.

For the formal side of things, think tonal and classic, highly quality tailoring and fitted cuts. For casual, think playful, “a takeover of laid back but tasteful luxury”. Key features include collars, cashmere, elegant slip dresses with interesting details, and denim layered with bright pops of colour.

Pure London Catwalk Credits: Hyve Group
Pure London Catwalk Credits: Hyve Group

Freaks and Geeks

This trend is a celebration of cultural as well as personal and social identity. Ewande describes this as “one of the most important trends in the industry at the moment, that isn’t going anywhere fast”. The trend is playful and features cutout details and a lot of texture.

Craftsmanship is key here with crochet, netting, and more. Colours are bright, happy, and strong - primaries of red, cobalt, and yellow are contrasted with pinks and mint green. Above all, there are no real rules to this trend, “it’s creative but care-free; silhouettes are basically like playing dress up”, Ewande said

Pure London Catwalk Credits: Hyve Group
Pure London