- FashionUnited |
Trendstop's materials experts bring you an insider's guide to the essential print and fabric themes for that will be impacting the materials market into the FW18-19. Our team travelled to the Premiere Vision event held at the Parc d'Expositions in Paris where an optimistic, future-proof vibe saw environmental responsibility, sustainability and inspirations from nature fused with the latest tech innovations and digital world influences that will be key to your next Fall/Winter collections. Our comprehensive materials trade show coverage and image galleries evaluate each trends commercial value and longevity, giving you the best possible basis for your decision making.
This week, FashionUnited readers get an exclusive look at three materials directions that will be informing the FW18-19 season. Nouveau Neoprene explores scuba fabric's transition from pure performance to fashion essential while The Fashion Tweed sees the modern reinvention of a classic. Astronomy Prints look to the future with a mix of galactic themed digital graphics and illustrations.
Scuba textures are reworked for Fall/Winter with a lighter handle that lends itself to fashion as well as sportswear applications. Spongy textures come with jersey-like finishes or contrast marled backers that tap into the athleisure trend while soft pastel tints and pale neutral colour-ways lend an increasingly transseasonal feel to substantial fabrications.
The Fashion Tweed
Boucle tweed textures are given a fashion twist for Fall with multicoloured, multi-textural knits shot with glittering metallics. Abstracted checks and stripes in looped, fluffy yarns are dotted with embroidery thread details or foil effect coatings for a contemporary take on a classic fabrication.
Nebula prints, planetary patters and astrology motifs give an other-worldly feel to Fall fabrics. Photoreal images are layered and collaged for an abstracted, softer take on digital prints while illustrative zodiac signs over lunar landscapes offer a fresh way to do the space-age trend.
FashionUnited readers can get free access to Trendstop's Fall/Winter 2017-18 Premiere Vision Fabric Show Overview, an essential guide to the season's material innovations direct from Premiere Vision, Paris. Simply click the banner to receive your complimentary report.
Trendstop.com is one of the world's leading trend forecasting agencies for fashion and creative professionals, renowned for its insightful trend analysis and forecasts. Clients include H&M, Primark, Forever 21, Zalando, Geox, Evisu, Hugo Boss, L'Oreal and MTV.
Images courtesy of Trendstop: G Vision, Ego Expe Pecci, SNT, Jules Tournier Since 1865, Lanificio Di Sordevolo, Laurent Garigue, Mitwill Textiles Europe, Fun Tekstil, Aker, all Fall Winter 2018-19.
- AFP |
Hommage royal aux "Dames de coeur" chez Dolce & Gabbana dimanche à Milan pour un des derniers défilés de la semaine de la mode femmes, célébrées joyeusement tout au long des défilés printemps-été 2018. Le duo sicilien s'est déchainé cette année avec des robes, des vestes associées à des pantalons ou des hauts rehaussés de motifs portant des "Dames de coeur" façon cartes à jouer.
Une collection typique de l'esprit joueur de cette maison de couture comportant aussi des couronnes d'or portées par de nombreux mannequins. "Toutes les femmes sont des reines et toutes les femmes vivent dans leur coeur", a expliqué Stefano Gabbana à l'AFP à la fin de ce défilé où le décor était en partie formé de cartes à jouer à taille humaine.
Les fashionistas à Milan ont pu apprécier d'étonnantes tenues trois pièces, très colorées, constituées de bandes étroites de tissu brillant, d'amples revers sur de larges pantalons arrivant à peine au cheville. Et les couturiers, Italie oblige, ont aussi rendu hommage à la cuisine, l'autre passion de ce pays, avec notamment une robe en soie imprimée de motifs dévoilant des cannoli, gateaux typiquement siciliens.
L'hommage aux femmes a été sans conteste l'un des temps forts de cette semaine de la mode printemps-été à Milan cette année, y compris pour la maison de couture Prada, dont nombre de créations sont nées cette année sous les doigts de femmes, artistes graphistes. Plus rebelles chez Mosquino, les femmes ont affiché crânement leur liberté en portant des blousons de cuir de motards ou des casquettes rappelant celle porté par Marlon Brando dans le film, "The wild one" (l'équipée sauvage).
Liberté aussi pour Trussardi avec le thème de l'envol. Cette maison de couture, l'une des plus anciennes en Italie, a décidé dimanche de faire décoller la fashion week en proposant une collection résolument aérienne, avec motifs d'avions ou "robes parachutes". Cette collection printemps-été 2018 est "inspirée par l'esprit d'entreprise libre des grandes voyageuses comme Amelia Earhart", a expliqué la styliste Gaia Trussardi, dans les notes de présentation de son défilé à Milan.
Et tant pis si cette aviatrice américaine a connu une fin tragique. Elle et son co-pilote ont disparu au-dessus de l'océan Pacifique, il y a 80 ans alors qu'ils tentaient un tour du monde. Les tenues présentées par Trussardi s'inspirent de ces pionniers de l'aviation en jouant avec les foulards de soie ou les ceintures à boucle.
Des silhouettes abstraites d'avions apparaissent sur les costumes d'hommes, ces derniers étant de plus en plus présents sur les passerelles de défilés en principe réservés à la mode femmes. Une demi-douzaine de maisons de couture ont fait ce choix cette semaine à Milan.
Le voyage ou l'exotisme restent des thèmes d'inspiration essentiels pour Trussardi. Des imprimés de fleurs, souvent tropicales, se retrouvent sur les robes ou tuniques de cette collection qui n'a pas non plus eu peur de montrer ce qui ressemblait à des peaux de serpent.
Fidèle à ses origines, - Trussardi était en 1911 au moment de sa création un fabriquant de gants -, les accessoires ne manquaient pas, comme des sacs aux ornements de cuir ou portant de nombreuses étiquettes rappelant les anciennes malles de voyage. (AFP)
Foto: D&G SS18, Catwalkpictures
- AFP |
It was all crowns and queens on Sunday as Dolce & Gabbana unveiled a collection that paid joyous homage to women, who were feted on catwalks around in Milan this week.
The Sicilian duo went wild with dresses, jacket and legging combinations as well as tops emblazoned with the "Queen of Hearts" playing card motif. It was typically playful Dolce & Gabbana that also included glittering gold crowns on many of the models, but some of whom were also swinging fancy bags with produce poking out of them.
One silky pyjama-like pairing of a loose top and trousers was printed with fluffy baby chicks and halved oranges. "All women are queens and all women live for the heart," Stefano Gabbana told AFP after the show, with people-size "Queen of Hearts" cards floating from the wall behind him.
There were striking three-piece suits in solid colours and slim stripes that had shiny fabric, wide lapels and roomy trousers that didn't quite make it to the ankle. And being Italy, the designers also celebrated food, the nation's other love after women.
A silky dress was printed with cannoli, a sweeping white number bore sweet pea pods. And a form-fitting shorts-and-trouser duo was about halfway to a salad with its carrot and beetroot motifs. Fashion godmother Anna Wintour was front and centre as was internet star Cameron Dallas, whose van was chased 100 metres down the road by screaming teenage fans desperate for a selfie with him.
The Italian fashion house is just one of several luxury brands hoping to build up a loyal support base among the so-called Millennials -- those born after 1980, who came of age in the 21st century and are social media gluttons.
It has persistently courted young influencers and their Instagram followers. A little nod in their direction came in the form of purses whose iconic D&G logo had a hashtag tacked onto it.
Paying homage to women was a theme on Milan's runways this week, including Miuccia Prada's collection that drew on the designs and characters produced by women graphic artists. "I feel we should really start being combative. I am kind of encouraging strength," she told reporters after the show.
'Amelia Earhart spirit'
Rebel brand Moschino showed off a collection on Friday that was a rock'n'roll riot of strong women, with lots of black leather, spikes and fishnet stockings The show even opened with motorcycle jacket-wearing models sporting miniature versions of the cap made iconic in Marlon Brando's 1953 biker flick "The Wild One".
Meanwhile, Sunday's show from Trussardi, one of Italy's oldest fashion houses, was all about escapism. It had plenty of abstract aeroplane motifs, clothes that billowed like parachutes and even a few re-imagined pilot jumpsuits. In her notes on the Spring/Summer 2018 designs shown in Milan, creative lead Gaia Trussardi said the suits were "inspired by the free and enterprising spirit of great female travellers like Amelia Earhart".
Never mind that things didn't work out so well for the American aviator. She and her co-pilot vanished eight decades ago over the Pacific while trying to fly around the world. Trussardi's clothes had lots of silk, straps and belts. Abstract aeroplane silhouettes showed up on suits for men, who are increasingly common on what was once a fashion week reserved for women. Some half-a-dozen houses will show co-ed collections over the six-day marathon in Milan.
There were also flat platform sandals with gold buckles as well as plenty of high heels with straps wrapping around the ankles. The journey was a big inspiration for Trussardi, but so too was the destination. Flower prints, like the flora of a tropical locale, made their way onto the clothes as did the perhaps less welcome fauna of what appeared to be snakeskin.
True to its roots -- the house started in 1911 as a glove manufacturer -- Trussardi also showed off new accessories. The Gita bag has leather trim, a compact shape and details that bring to mind the labels and tags that accumulate on a well-travelled bag. (AFP)
- AFP |
Trussardi, one of Italy's oldest fashion houses, wants to fly you away with a collection unveiled Sunday that had plenty of abstract aeroplane motifs, clothes that billowed like parachutes and even a few re-imagined pilot jumpsuits.
In her notes on the Spring/Summer 2018 designs shown in Milan, creative lead Gaia Trussardi, said the suits "are inspired by the free and enterprising spirit of great female travellers like Amelia Earhart". Never mind that things didn't work out so well for the American aviator. She and her co-pilot vanished eight decades ago over the Pacific while trying to fly around the world.
Trussardi's clothes had lots of silk, straps and belts. Abstract aeroplane silhouettes showed up on suits for men, who are increasingly common on what was once a fashion week reserved for women. Some half-a-dozen houses will show co-ed collections over the six-day marathon on Milan.
There were also flat platform sandals with straps and gold buckles as well as plenty of high heels with straps that wrap around the ankles. The journey was a big inspiration for Trussardi, but so was the destination. Flower prints, like the flora of a tropical locale, made their way on to the clothes as did the perhaps less welcome fauna of what appeared to be snakeskin.
True to its roots -- the house started in 1911 as a glove manufacturer -- Trussardi showed off new accessories. The Gita bag has leather trim, a compact shape and details that bring to mind the labels and tags that accumulate on a well-travelled bag.
The fashion circus in Milan continues later on Sunday with highly-anticipated collection from Dolce & Gabbana, which will be the last blockbuster name set to send a collection down the catwalk during this fashion week. (AFP)
- AFP |
Italian fashion house Bottega Veneta had Hollywood star Lauren Hutton bobbing her head to hip-hop on Saturday as it showed off a playful, nightclub-ready collection heavy on jewels, mirrors and fringe.
The venerable Venetian outfit transformed a warren of rooms and halls at the 19th century Palazzo Archinto -- now a school -- into a sprawling runway at Milan fashion week. The co-ed Spring/Summer 2018 collection featured airy shirt-dresses, fringe strung with tiny glass beads and several slinky floor-length dresses covered in rhinestones.
Kardashian mum Kris Jenner was front and centre, watching her daughter Kendall pass in a geometric-pattern swimsuit and shiny trench coat. Superstar Bella Hadid was on the runway too, after shows for Fendi and Moschino. Bottega regular Hutton -- who famously sported a red leather Bottega purse when she starred alongside Richard Gere in "American Gigolo" -- sat in the front row tapping her toe and nodding along with the booming sounds of rapper 50 Cent's 2003 smash "In Da Club".
"It's all these easy pieces," Bottega's long-time creative lead Tomas Maier said in his design notes. "Even the long dresses are like T-shirts." The women's silhouettes were clean and utilitarian, but there was tonnes of embellishment -- with tiny round mirrors, exotic skins like anaconda and metal eyelets of varying sizes.
Designs for the fellas were sporty but sharp, including dapper tapered trousers and pointy shoes. Materials like antique satin, suede and cotton pique ruled the day. "It makes for a very precise silhouette," Maier's notes said.
Now owned by French conglomerate Kering, which also has Gucci in its stable of luxury brands, Bottega Veneta was founded in 1966 by Michele Taddei and Renzo Zengiaro.
The fashion circus in Milan continues Saturday with big shows from Missoni, Salvatore Ferragamo and the first Milan outing for Luke and Lucie Meier since taking creative lead at Jil Sander. (AFP)
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
Fashion and lifestyle brand Rossignol is teaming up with Italia Independent to produce and distribute a co-branded eyewear collection, which will be unveiled at MIDO eyewear show in Milan next year.
Rossignol, known for its outdoor and skiwear apparel, and fashion brand Italia Independent, has promised that its debut co-branded eyewear collection will boost “high-tech” elements and “unique details” that both brands are known for.
"The partnership with Italia Independent has arisen out of a common vision: the leveraging of tradition, quest for excellence and a strong technical innovation component,” said Alessandro Locatelli, chief executive of Rossignol Apparel. "In keeping with the founding values of the two companies, we are convinced that partnership with Italia Independent will enable us to offer the market highly desirable, high-performance products, in line with the absolute quality criteria that have always distinguished the Rossignol brand offering."
Lapo Elkann, founder and artistic director of Italia Independent, added: "I am delighted with this trans-Alpine union between two companies bound by a great respect for tradition and the desire to look to the future with enthusiasm.
“A union that brings together two names that are symbolic of stylistic and technological excellence. I'm sure the fruits of this partnership will offer our customers a unique experience.”
- AFP |
The world is a bit of a mess at the moment -- facing a string of natural disasters and potentially some manmade ones -- but Giorgio Armani figures his clothes don't have to be that way.
The Spring/Summer 2018 collection he sent down the runway Friday at Milan Fashion Week was bright and modern, full of vivid prints and crisp cuts. What was absent was outrage over US President Donald Trump, fears that North Korea's cold war might get hot or the devastation left by a string of earthquakes and monster hurricanes.
"It's not because it's a sad moment that I have to make women sad on the runway," the veteran designer told reporters after his show at Teatro Armani. Art with a "capital A", impressionist paintings -- but not one in particular -- drove him to create a collection of flowery prints, bright silky pinks and lots of sequins.
There were plenty of small jackets, short dresses with sloping hemlines and luminous pleated skirts. The models also showed off vertiginous, see-through high heels. Gauzy jacket and trouser suits embellished with bright designs as well as silky green or silver skirts were major themes. They were all part of what the designer's notes called the "sophisticated, linear elegance of the Armani language."
As ever, the show concluded with the designer emerging briefly from backstage in his trademark work clothes of long-sleeved top and high-tech sweatpants to acknowledge the audience's applause. With his deep tan, scrupulously tended head of white hair and a silhouette honed by daily workouts, Armani could easily pass for a much younger man. The show comes just two months after the Armani group announced it would reorganise its brands, concentrating on three core labels and trimming its network of boutiques.
The change-up was announced in July when Armani confirmed its sales had fallen five percent in the previous year. Big brands like Prada have struggled to find their mojo after revenues across the luxury world were hurt by a slowdown in Asia and currency volatility.
Armani is the sole owner of a group he founded in 1975 and, with no children of his own, does not have a natural heir, although a nephew and two nieces are involved in the company. Later on Friday, the army of bloggers, buyers and fashion hounds in Milan will aim their smartphones at the new collections by Versace and Roberto Cavalli, whose new creative lead, British designer Paul Surridge, is making his maiden voyage. (AFP)
- AFP |
Miuccia Prada delivered an unflinching defence Thursday of her creative leadership of the flagging luxury giant that bears her name, saying her work is more important than sales.
Her Spring/Summer 2018 collection had just gone down the catwalk at Milan Fashion Week, when the billionaire businesswoman and designer reacted to the lacklustre sales that have dogged Prada.
"I don't want to be judged by sales, my life is much more important than sales," she told reporters backstage at Prada headquarters. "I never think about that. My life is more important -- what I do through my job -- is more important than it."
The wider luxury business hit the doldrums in recent years due to a collision of culprits like a slowdown in Asia, currency volatility and customers staying home after a series of terror attacks in Europe. But houses like Gucci -- which saw sales in the first quarter of 2017 grow at their fastest pace in 20 years -- have bounced back, while others are struggling to find their mojo.
Prada reported earlier this month a drop in profits and a fall in revenues in the first half of the year, saying it was overhauling its operations with the aim of generating more regular income.
Still Prada hit the catwalk with a fighting spirit, showing a collection adorned with the studs made famous by punk rockers' black leather jackets. There was also a mash-up combination of flowing floral dresses, striped businessman-type shirts and skinny trousers which stopped at the calf.
The idea behind the collection was a blank slate, and Prada said nearly all of the dresses began white and were subsequently printed over with colours. She also mixed leopard print with other patterns and added images drawn by women comic book artists.
Prada said she is a "a bit" angry over women's treatment in the world and her designs were an encouragement for them to be strong. "I feel we should really start being combative. I am kind of encouraging strength," she added.
Karl Lagerfeld's designs couldn't have been more different, with a tropical chic collection that was all see-through and skin with colours cool enough to soothe your sunburn. The latest designs from the veteran German designer emerged "in a swirl of Caribbean colour and flavour", as he said in his notes on the collection for Fendi.
Superstar models Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner helped show off the looks to the selfie-snapping crowd that included fashion godmother Anna Wintour in the front row. To the sounds of jungle electro, there were stripes big and small on display as well as skin peeking out from just above the hip. Fringes fanned out like palm fronds on the strap of one of the bags -- which are among the accessories the house is famous for.
There was not a dour trace in the collection, which comes just over three months after the death of Carla Fendi. She was one of five sisters who inherited a small leather goods workshop that they turned into a luxury juggernaut.
Lagerfeld, who has designed collections for the house for over 50 years, has often been referred to as the sixth Fendi sibling. On the catwalk the gauzy skirts and coats came in colours of ocean blue, seafoam green and coral pink. Pin-striped cotton skirts hugged high on the waist.
Amid all the seaside holiday vibes, Lagerfeld sent down the runway a wide denim trench coat and a brown leather dress that looked fit for a frontierswoman. The collection also saw Fendi unveil the latest addition to the eye-wateringly expensive range of accessories that drive the company's revenues.
The Mon Tresor bag is leather with metallic pearls and the new Runway tote is transparent mesh with rattan handles. French luxury group LVMH, which owns Fendi, said earlier this year that it was cautiously confident for 2017 after posting record results last year. Bottom-line net profit grew by 11 percent to 3.98 billion euros and revenues were up five percent at 37.6 billion euros.
Day two of Milan closed out with a rock'n'roll riot from Moschino, which is under the creative lead of American Jeremy Scott. He has been called the last rebel in fashion and on Thursday did his best to live up to that label. His show opened with motorcyle jacket-wearing models sporting miniature versions of the cap made iconic in Marlon Brando's 1953 biker flick "The Wild One".
But Scott pivoted from there to models dressed as flowers -- with one showing off an outfit that was complete with the pollen-producing reproductive bit called a stamen. The show climaxed with a model in a furry purple orb that was mobbed by a cloud of butterflies -- a look that drew spontaneous applause from the crowd. (AFP)
- Danielle Wightman-Stone |
While a catwalk show may still be the traditional and most preferred showcase for most designers, more and more are loving the freedom and ability to tell the story of their collection vision by embracing a static presentation, and FashionUnited has rounded up its five favourites from London Fashion Week.Sophia Webster
For spring/summer 2018, Sophia Webster has been inspired by the Cottingley fairy phenomenon of 1917, where a series of photographs by Elsie Wright appeared to show the existence of fairies, and transformed Somerset House’s Portico Rooms into a fairy flower garden.
The footwear and handbag designer is known for her quirky and elaborate presentations, this season however, there seemed to be a new maturity, yes the fun and creativity was still there, with some shoes featuring fairies in the heels, but it felt more grown up, especially across the growing collection of eveningwear styles with new shoe featuring velvet, satin and embroidered finishes.
There were also new techniques seen throughout with shoes and handbags featuring leather florals, crochet seam raffias and grosgrain frills that added textured and detailing to the growing collection.
The quirky was still seen with slogans such as ‘Roses are Red’, ‘I’ll Bring You Flowers’ and ‘Chickflix and Frills’, and her showstopper knee-high caged boots have been encased in gems and vintage brooch inspired crystals.
“I’ve loved working with this more sophisticated tone for SS18 and layering on these fairytale elements,” said Webster. “I wanted the collection to be poetic, but also modern and wearable.”
Webster also unveiled her jewellery collaboration with British jeweller Alex Monroe featuring handmade wing-inspired earpieces, delicate dandelion leaf cuffs and rings.Alice Archer
Emerging fashion designer Alice Archer brought her trip to an organic Sicilian lemon farm to life with her spring/summer 2018 presentation to offer a beautiful and slightly kitsch collection.
Cherries, strawberries, grapes and lemons were seen across the summery collection, with one of the statement pieces featuring embroidered cherries tumbling down the tulle overlay of a red-and-white gingham maxi dress.
For SS18, Archer has also introduced new sculptural shapes to her growing collection to include relaxed day dresses, silk linen suiting featuring cherry-blossom embroidery on it, silk printed separates, including cherry printed wide-leg trousers, as well as decadent evening gowns.
Archer’s signature silk Kimono has also seen an update, with over-sized lemons and green leave scattered across the blue silk, while her signature gingham shirts have been emblazoned with lemons.
Feminine touches can be seen across the summery fruity prints to the back and waist tie detailing to the cherry-shaped pompoms dangled from the edges of a sleeveless dress.Markus Lupfer
An ode to a Slim Aarons photograph with women decadently lounging around a swimming pool was brought to life at Markus Lupfer’s spring/summer 2018 presentation, with the Lupfer girl being “part old-Hollywood, part new disruptor, a Slim Aarons muse, but with much more attitude”, the show notes explains.
As you would expect the collection was bright, a little naughty, with mischievous monkeys seen swinging from vines on the print used on everything from the cabana shirt dresses to pool turbans and even the set’s furniture.
Highlights included psychedelic floral printed blouses tucked into matching pleated georgette skirts that featured a sheer black organza overlay for added glamour, while retro swimming caps inspired the sheer skirts and blouses adorned with pink and blue sequinned flowers, and the vibrant orange print that popped against the green, pink and blue hues.
Accessories have also been updated with the sunglasses continuing to be large in nude and navy blue colours, while platform heels were fastened with straps in the shape of sequinned rainbows and jewelled parrots, and the earrings dangle to the collarbone.Alistair James
Each season, fashion duo Nicholas Alistair Walsh and David James Wise, behind the Alistair James label dedicate their collection to a different muse, for autumn/winter 2017 it was a love letter to the Brontë sisters and for spring/summer 2017 it was Wendy from Peter Pan, and this season the collection takes inspiration from the fable of Sleeping Beauty and Briar Rose.
Entitled ‘Love Conquers All’ the collection has a romance and strength about it, from floor-sweeping ruffle-clad shirt dresses to a silver sequin jumpsuit evoking 1970s glamour, which all paid homage to Ossie Clark’s silhouettes that the designers referenced as a key inspiration.
The setting of Fitzrovia Chapel created drama and intrigued to the presentation, with the models surrounded by floral cages that added whimsy to the beautiful collection, from the shimmering gowns embellished in Swarovski crystals and the playful ruffled day dresses, and shoes featuring oversized bows.
“This season is our first presentation,” said co-designer David James Wise. “Storytelling has always been a central part of our process, embracing this platform has allowed us to deliver a clear narrative.”
The British fashion label also worked with Swarovski this season, using crystals throughout the collection, from draped chains to bespoke heart and star embellishments to portray the magical ambience of the fairytales that inspired the collection.
“As a brand Swarovski has always championed craftsmanship and creative expression, both of which are central to our ethos,” added co-designer Nicholas Alistair Walsh. “By using Swarovski crystals we have been able to elevate pieces to bring our story to life.”Holly Fulton
Scottish designer Holly Fulton returned to the London Fashion Week schedule after a one-year hiatus to showcase a presentation that acted as a retrospective remix of her key ideas and motifs from the labels ten-year history.
The spring/summer 2018 collection has a strong 1960s feel to it, with mini skirts and in a checkerboard pattern, while dresses, skirts and coats feature zebra prints, and Art Deco motifs embrace sporty tops, maxi skirts and trousers.
Fulton also continues her knitwear collaboration with John Smedley, creating a capsule collection of knitted sports tops, graphic coats and long line track pants that complement signature silk separates.
The vibrant presentation, which was set against Fulton’s signature graphic prints, also showed the designers aim to make her label a 360 vision by adding interior designs, with sofa’s from Moooi upholstered with placement black and white Bloom print, as well as printed wallpaper, Perspex checkerboard side tables, and printed bone china plates adorned with leaping zebras and pop targets. In addition, there was also giant jacquard throws and cushions made in collaboration with John Smedley.
Images: Sophia Webster and Markus Lupfer taken by Danielle Wightman-Stone / all others courtesy of Alice Archer, Alistair James and Holly Fulton.
- AFP |
Karl Lagerfeld chanelled tropical chic on Thursday, unveiling a collection that was all see-through and skin with colours cool enough to soothe your sunburn.
The latest designs from the veteran German designer emerged "in a swirl of Caribbean colour and flavour", as he said in his notes on the Spring/Summer 2018 collection for Fendi at Milan Fashion Week. Superstar models Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner helped show off the looks to the selfie-snapping crowd that included fashion godmother Anna Wintour in the front row.
To the sounds of jungle electro, there were stripes big and small on display as well as skin peeking out from just above the hip. Fringes fanned out like palm fronds on the strap of one of the bags -- which are among the accessories the house is famous for.
There was not a dour trace in the collection, which comes just over three months after the death of Carla Fendi. She was one of five sisters who inherited a small leather goods workshop that they turned into a luxury juggernaut.
Lagerfeld, who has designed collections for the house for over 50 years, has often been referred to as the sixth Fendi sibling. On the catwalk the gauzy skirts and coats came in colours of ocean blue, seafoam green and coral pink. Pin-striped cotton skirts hugged high on the waist. Amid all the seaside holiday vibes, Lagerfeld sent down the runway a wide denim trench coat and a brown leather dress that looked fit for a frontierswoman.
The collection also saw Fendi unveil the latest addition to the eye-wateringly expensive range of accessories that drive the company's revenues. The Mon Tresor bag is leather with metallic pearls and the new Runway tote is transparent mesh with rattan handles.
French luxury group LVMH, which owns Fendi, said earlier this year that it was cautiously confident for 2017 after posting record results last year. Bottom-line net profit grew by 11 percent to 3.98 billion euros and revenues were up five percent at 37.6 billion euros. All eyes will be on flagging giant Prada and rebellious Moschino later Thursday when they unveil their new collection to buyers, bloggers and fashion lovers gathered in Italy's economic capital. (AFP)