Androgyny and opulence reign at Saint Laurent

In the history of fashion, few designers loom as large as Yves Saint Laurent. His predilection for impeccable tailoring, including his own look of sharply cut suits, and those now-iconic square spectacles, have become as much a part of fashion lore as the groundbreaking designs he unleashed upon the world.

It was Saint Laurent who, in 1966, debuted Le Smoking - a woman's tuxedo that challenged gender norms and redefined femininity. This singular moment of sartorial defiance has echoed through the decades, a testament to Saint Laurent's visionary approach to design and his ability to anticipate the zeitgeist.

Now, more than half a century removed from that watershed moment, the house of Saint Laurent, under the stewardship of Anthony Vaccarello, has made a triumphant return to its tailoring roots. In a collection that feels both nostalgic and utterly of the moment, Vaccarello reinterpreted the codes that once defined both Monsieur Saint Laurent and his eponymous maison.

The runway pulsed with a parade of suits that managed to be at once masculine and oversized, yet imbued with an ineffable lightness. A double-breasted beige suit, layered beneath a utilitarian bomber jacket, spoke to a modern sensibility while paying homage to the house's heritage. Lapels, shoulders, and cuffs of oversized proportions evoked the excesses of 1980s YSL campaigns, tempered by Vaccarello's razor-sharp eye for precision.

The collection's exploration of proportion play continued with mismatched jackets and trousers, the latter cut with a generous roominess. Oversized trenches added another layer of dimension to the already voluminous silhouettes. Throughout, pointy heels provided a feminine counterpoint to the masculinity of the tailoring, a subtle nod to the gender-bending ethos that has long been a hallmark of the Saint Laurent brand.

From a commercial perspective, handbags were conspicuously absent from the runway presentation. Despite the accessory category's outsized importance to luxury houses' bottom lines, Vaccarello chose to accent his looks solely with eyewear and jewelry. The addition of neckties lent a certain stylistic gravitas to the collection, though whether this particular accessory will find widespread adoption remains to be seen.

Opulence

The show’s finale, a procession of glamorous jackets paired with pencil skirts, injected a vital dose of opulence. At a time when discerning consumers are increasingly questioning the value proposition of paying for expensive, luxury garments, this finale served as a potent reminder of what true luxury can and should be. The fabrics, rich and dense, showcased in a kaleidoscope of jewel tones and brocades, spoke to a level of craftsmanship and quality that has been noticeably absent from many recent presentations.

While some may argue that the exaggerated proportions of certain suits verged on costume, it's worth noting that Bottega Veneta's recent showing featured similar silhouettes, suggesting that this bold direction in tailoring is here to stay.

In this collection Vaccarello not only paid homage to Saint Laurent's legacy, he reinvigorated it, infusing the brand's storied codes with a contemporary energy that feels both fresh and familiar. It's a delicate balancing act, one that requires a deep understanding of the house's history and a clear vision for its future. Let's not forget that Mr. Vaccarello also had the legacy of Hedi Slimane to contend with. Without ever wiping the slate clean, the departure has never been more apt than now, when a designer truly comes into his own at a storied fashion house.