Marc Jacobs on Monday showed his Fall 2022 collection at New York’s Public Library, the same venue since his June 2021 show and only second in-person catwalk since the pandemic.
It was a statement show defined by looks of layered control with Jacobs quoting Nietsche to underscore his message: “We have art in order not to die of the truth.” With the collection aptly titled ‘Choice’, he also iterated the importance of creativity: “My sentiment is unwavering. Creativity is essential to living. In contrast to the ongoing brutality and ugliness of a world beyond our insulated but not impermeable walls.”
While Jacobs’ creativity has always been visibly abundant, the evolving trajectory of his designs and career over time is quite extraordinary, soaring high above his designer peers in NYC. Any pressure from LVMH to be more commercial isn’t visible, nor has it put a stain on Jacobs message and vision, so articulately presented on Friday.
There was indeed no wavering in the looks, which saw an all gender cast of models sport exaggerated bangs with razor cut sides walk in white Mary Jane platforms of the highest heights. The striking silhouette was voluminous and long, less bulbous than spring 2022 perhaps, but still amplifying oversized knits and fabrics that were constructed in a manner to challenge form.
Skirts and gowns came ankle length or longer, with Jacobs ushering in new codes on elongated hems, proportions and fabric, which included metallics, plastic, rubber and foil. The exuberance of the volumes – how many meters of yarn in those sweater dresses? – they also spoke of restraint and self awareness. The elbow gloves and headscarves covering the wearer by choice. The mountains of fabric tied around waists that could easily be undone in seconds, freeing the wearer if they needed to shed their cocoon.
There was some skin on show too, with a tiny bralette that barely covered nipples and thigh high splits. Elsewhere there was complexity in the way a ballgown was cut and re-shaped. Even the denim was remastered into a super wide leg and worn with a metallic tunic.
The theme of the show may be called Choice, but it also spoke of Freedom. Something the American public is grappling with amidst the current political and legal landscape.