At Paris Fashion Week, who is Victoria Beckham?

In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, designers often carve out a distinct visual identity, a unique design language that becomes synonymous with their brand. However, Victoria Beckham seems to defy this trend, choosing a path less traveled by maintaining an ever-changing aesthetic each season.

For Fall 2024, this includes elongated necks on knitwear and outerwear, the latter appearing more like protective collars. In a preview before the show Ms Beckham told Vogue: “We talk a lot about creating a wardrobe here. And so this one was literally inspired by a physical wardrobe. Building up the shoulderline, suspending things.” But a wardrobe could mean a plethora of things.

Beckham's evolution to a more minimalist approach to design has been a more challenging journey in creating a consistent visual identity, especially as the roots to her brand lie elsewhere. Unlike luxe minimalist labels The Row or Céline under Phoebe Philo - both of whom have in some seasons appeared to have been a heavy influence - her wardrobe appears to be chameleon-like adapting with each collection.

The change of Design Director roles in 2022, when Lara Barrio replaced Victoria’s right hand designer Ilaria Icardi, also brought a new skill set and aesthetic.

While some may view this as a refreshing departure from predictability, others argue that it poses challenges in building a recognisable brand image. Since showing in Paris, Beckham's runway presentations have taken on a more elevate status, yet their remains a diverse range of styles, from sleek minimalism to bold prints, and from structured tailoring to relaxed silhouettes. This constant shift challenges the conventional wisdom that a fashion brand should have a cohesive and instantly recognisable look.

A consist design language

Some critics may argue that this lack of design consistency may hinder the establishment of a strong brand identity in the clothes, making it difficult for consumers to associate a specific aesthetic with Victoria Beckham.

On the flip side, Beckham's dynamic approach could be seen as a deliberate choice, a refusal to be confined by the constraints of a singular design language. It allows her the freedom to experiment, explore new styles, and surprise her audience with each runway show. In a rapidly changing fashion landscape, where designers are constantly pushed to reinvent and adapt, Beckham's ever-changing aesthetic may be a strategic response to the demand for novelty and innovation.

In the end, whether Beckham's approach is a brilliant strategy or a risky gamble remains a subject of debate. For now, one can't help but wonder if this dynamic approach will continue to be a defining feature or if, eventually, a more consistent visual language will emerge.