In Paris, fashion week turns a confident new leaf

With Paris fashion week firmly underway as the last leg of global fashion month, a confidence in the collections and business conducted off runway signal a turning tide and new direction.

Saint Laurent was especially confident, delivering upbeat newness with Anthony Vaccarello having allegedly spent months refining the glorious new shoulder shapes he proposed in the tailoring and jackets for SS22.

Body confident at Saint Laurent

Trimming the oversized and exaggerated into something sharp and muscular (with a wink to the eighties power shoulder minus the flamboyance), Vaccarello has brought the blazer and catsuit firmly to the fore next season. Finely balancing the masculine and feminine, a double-breasted wool check jacket with perfectly proportioned buttons was worn with a simple wool check legging. I mention the buttons because the details matter. A cropped version with a slightly smaller lapel was teamed with a black cigarette pant. Monochromatic chic is perhaps timeless, but never was it so fresh, so now.

Skintight catsuits with double or triple knitted bandeaux tops demand attention, to be worn for the reopening of nightlife as IRL events return, heralding a new era of sexy dressing. Opulence, glamour, embellishment, skin - it is all back, yet without self aggrendisement it celebrates fashion and the individual at its best. This isn’t about ego dressing, but about unleashing the (well-dressed) beasts that have been forced to hibernate since the pandemic and looking to the future.

At Marine Serre, a white crocheted catsuit featured hosiery details in the sleeves and legs with the house’s moon emblem embroidered. The colour white signified optimism and perhaps anticipation for next season to be here already.

The future is bright at Dior, where shades of high pink, emerald, purple and red made for sporty separates inspired by boxing. The oversize silk shorts may be stylistically challenging but it worked in the bomber jacket and outerwear. For evening, an exhilarating column gown in bright red with a giant bow brought positivism and a new mood for elegance. Gone are any reasons to retreat to the back, fashion is here to celebrate and reveal the best version of oneself.