LFW AW24: All-aboard SRVC’s London commute

A standout moment from this season’s London Fashion Week had to be attending a fashion show on an iconic red London double-decker bus to see SRVC present its autumn/winter 2024 collection inspired by the morning commute on return from a tropical holiday.

SRVC (pronounced 'service', ed.) was founded in 2021 under the creative direction of designer Ricky Wesley Harriott to address the needs of the modern woman by exploring innovation and functionality with a “hyper-futuristic edge”.

For its autumn/winter 2024 ‘Human Resources’ showcase, SRVC turned London’s mundane morning commute into a fashion show, with models wearing body-hugging looks with cinched-waist and statement shoulders weaving their way up and down the narrow staircases of three Transport for London (TfL) buses parked outside of Bloomsbury’s Stewart House.

On the inspiration behind the catwalk location, creative director Ricky Wesley Harriott said: “This collection and all its themes are so very rooted in my lifelong relationship with London and the incredible that command this city."

“We really wanted to allow you to see this collection in the way we encounter clothes every day. In passing, in motion, in real life.”

The collection made a statement, blurring the line between masculinity and femininity, with tailored suits cut to boxy proportions with cut-out detailing to the hips and trouser hems sporting shirt collar-inspired details alongside pinstripe shirts worn as dresses and as miniskirts skirts. There were also woollen two-piece sets, featuring jackets with cinched waists, commanding shoulders, and off-centre buttons, and poplin button-up dresses and shirts with cut-out accents at the chest and statement sleeves with a perpetual rolled-up appearance.

There was also a day-to-night bus feel, with lace body-hugging jumpsuits layered underneath provocatively draped dresses and satin-like two-pieces with cut-out detailing, and knitted denim skirts and backless maxi dresses with thigh-high slits.

SRVC’s Ricky Wesley Harriott on rethinking womenswear

Before LFW, creative director Ricky Wesley Harriott, previously a designer at Vetements, spoke to FashionUnited about how SRVC is rethinking womenswear, the inspiration behind the AW24 collection, as well as the importance of sustainability, diversity, and inclusivity.

What inspired you to launch SRVC?

When we came together, we understood that we wanted to address diversity, empowerment and visibility for different kinds of women at different stages of their lives. We as a team feel incredibly passionate about giving space and being of service to women who look to fashion to help armour themselves through life and its many societal expectations and pressures.

How would you describe your brand’s aesthetic?

The brand very much aims to address the needs of a wardrobe. We look at things that we all recognise and amplify them with twists and details that feel of servitude to the wearer. We often incorporate elements that allow self-styling as it’s really important to us that the client feels they can make the pieces truly theirs. Our relationship with how the client feels is a really big priority so we really enjoy finding ways to make our garments purposefully utilitarian.

What was the starting point and inspiration for the autumn/winter 2024 collection?

The last collection depicted the idea of a dystopian resort and was focused on our digital bad habits even when we are supposed to be on vacation. For this collection, I wanted to address what happens after the holiday. You go back to work. I have always spent a lot of time observing and being inspired by things and people I see on my morning commute, and I began to document this with a lot more intent.

I found a fascination in how we as people armour ourselves at the top of the day to face society, work, responsibility, and life. The source of this collection is really human and honest but reworking it in the context of SRVC was exciting and playful.

How do you implement sustainability in your designs?

At SRVC all of our denim is actually repurposed. We source vintage and second-hand denim and cut our shapes from this. It’s a really lovely process because each piece is slightly different. I love that nostalgic feeling of your favourite worn denim against our shapes.

Why is it important for SRVC to be part of London Fashion Week?

For me as a Londoner, it feels like such a privilege to be able to share SRVC with London Fashion Week. I think fashion in London always has such heart and intention. Designers here really tell stories and deliver collections that resonate beyond just clothing. London is a bold and fearless fashion capital and I love being a part of that.

You had a diverse and inclusive cast on the catwalk – why was that important to you?

Diversity is so important to us. The world is full of different kinds of people representing different points of view, I genuinely wouldn’t have it any other way.

As a designer one of my main focuses is for women to be able to see themselves in what I am proposing so having a diverse cast is truly non-negotiable for me.

What’s next for SRVC?

After our show, we regroup and begin production on the pieces for our stores, but I get to sit and think about the next part of the story. I have some really great ideas that I want to explore, but I am excited to move forward and continue building our narrative as a brand.

I also really want to work more closely with our growing community. We have a pool of women who have taken SRVC to heart and the more I see our clients in our clothes, the bigger need I feel to work with them in shaping what this brand truly represents.

What are the biggest challenges facing your business?

I think a lot of small independent brands are expected to function at the same level as bigger houses and that’s a really slippery slope. I think that expectation can be quite daunting and is not always sustainable for young designers mentally and financially.

I think we need to reset our expectations and allow brands to sustainably grow their businesses in ways that really reflect the stage of their business.

If you could be the creative helm of any luxury house, which would you choose?

I of course have houses I feel that I would thrive in taking on, but honestly, my work with SRVC is my focus, I am at the helm of this house, and I want to make it a house that really means something to people.

If you weren't a fashion designer - what would you be?

Asleep.

Who in the fashion industry inspires you?

Martine Rose, I love her work so deeply. Her references and her perspectives, I recognise a lot of where she is coming from, and it means the world to have a designer who creates exquisite clothing that I personally both identify with and feel great in. She is masterful at creating community and I think that is a beautiful thing.