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LFW begins with a dose of ‘Big Love’ by Sabyasachi Mukherjee

By Sujata Sachdeva

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Fashion

From beauty statements that will inspire summer trends like never before to revolutionary innovation in makeup, the ‘Lakmé Makeup Show’ gave a stunning start with Lakme’s face Shraddha Kapoor to the Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2015 (LFW). This year the fashion extravaganza is celebrating 15 years of fashion and beauty. But, it was Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s whose offsite show at the old and non-functional Richardson and Cruddas Mills in Mumbai, a day prior that created a ripple among audiences. Ace designer Manish Malhotra, a favourite among every Bollywood celebrity struck a chord with, ‘The Blue Runway'. The ‘for a cause' collection featured lot of yellow and indigo hues which are the latest colours for the season. Each attire contained patterns that were earthly and unique.

At the Gen Next show by students of INIFD on the first day, mentored by ace couturier Anita Dongre, the six designers showcased fabulous mix of creativity, style, innovations and trend setting directions.

Mukherjee seduces with ‘Big Love’

The ramp was lit with high-tech multi laser lights to set the stage for Mukherjee's launch of new resort 2015 line ‘Big Love’ for his label, 'Sabyasachi by Sabyasachi’. It was like a dream unveiling on a big scale as 62 models sashayed down the ramp in 105 colourful outfits created by the designer.

The ensembles were inspired by 70's with a touch of modern day sensibilities. Giving a new dimension to a sari, he brought in a romantic military flavour to the rest of the ensembles. The show opened with 70's hit tunes playing in the background, as models strutted wearing innovative sari teamed with an antique gold embroidered blouse, pre-stitched draped saris, toga gowns with shimmering hemlines, saris with net extensions and jumpsuits with sheer net capes. As the show progressed, the shades changed to brown, grey and beige and ensembles to bell bottom jumpsuits or palazzos, long maxi shirt waister, layered capes, column dresses, boleros, gilets and sari gowns.

What followed after the first line-up further mesmerizing the audience was a collection of suits with thigh length shirt-coats in bottle green or brown, fully embroidered sequins, crystals and 3D embellished minis, shifts, sack dresses, kurtas, gowns and tunics in silver and rust in printed and solid fabrics. Men's wear followed the colour story started with black kurtas, Bundis and scarves, followed by bottle green and brown Jodhpuri jackets, and brightly coloured floral printed suits, kurtas, Bandgalas, brocade sherwanis, surprising the fashionistas.

The Gen Next stars wow spectators

The opening day of LFW Summer/Resort 2015 also witnessed a specular presentation by student of INIFD. Alan Alexander Kaleekal, a graduate from Studio Bereot Paris for his label 'Kaleekal' gave an innovative dimension to fashion and clothing, moving away from specific norms of fashion and categories. Using a colour story of ecru and black, there were sheer/solid tie-up dress, cotton boxy tunic, cut-away overall with cropped top and a rear back tie-up tunic with shorts. The clever mix of solids and sheers was beautifully blended into the creations.

Giving feminine and classic touches to his creations for his label 'Greusha', Ankit Carpenter's collection focused on timeless clean construction and silhouettes. Inspired by the cactus, the show started with bright yellow will-powered gathered dress followed by yellow and white jumpsuit, one-shoulder origami inspired mini and the acid green georgette dress.

Kanika Goyal's collection called ‘Creatures of the Night’ had a blend of provocative minimalism. Her collection used glass nylon, polyester satin, denim, Lycra, lamb leather and cow hide in shades of white, beige and lilac. The twisted collar shirt for men, the panelled denim jumpsuit for the ladies, foiled leather top with thigh-high slit sheer pencil skirt were the highlights of her range.

With a Masters in Fashion Design Technology in menswear, Manish Bansal gave the term 'suits' a new dimension. His collection depicted suits that are attached to the word 'gamble'. Graduating from the National Institute of Fashion Technology Bengaluru, Priyanka Ella Lorena Lama presented an inspired collection from the mythical 'Utopia' for her label P.E.L.L.A. Presenting a collection with natural fabrics that was almost meditative in nature, inspired by the opening of the chakras, the silks and jacquards in a white story had simple organic shapes that flowed around the body. Inspired by Picasso's cubist painting 'Les Demoiselles D'vignon' Salita Nanda's ‘Demoiselles’ collection had lots of digital prints and a series of 3D printed fabrics.

LFW
Manish Malhotra
Sabyasachi Mukherjee