Menswear AW16 catwalk analysis

Now that the men's autumn winter 2016 collections have been shown on the world's leading catwalks, the direction for next season has been unveiled. More importantly, what we saw on the catwalks in Paris, Milan and London, was a reinvention of the paragons of menswear: Collections are at once retro and contemporary, utilitarian and luxurious, classic and directional. A sense of creativity and rebellion has emerged in what has been turbulent times across the globe.

In Paris we saw tailoring softened as volume was increased. Fabrics are of luxurious drape and a cinematic 1960s feel takes over from the 1970s as a touchstone for retro inspiration. In Milan this was outed as 70s-chic. Youth culture, especially a punk mentality, inspires a creative and subversive mood. Americana gets a quirky makeover, deconstructed and re-proportioned for a new aesthetic.

Utilitarianism

The theme of utility that started in London carried on through Milan and finally Paris, culminating through references and detailing, such as garment panels, seen at Sacai, inside-out pocket details, seen at Louis Vuitton, to give next season a futuristic edge. Layered styling combines both tailored and casual elements for versatility, held together and controlled by prominent compression and adjustment straps, as seen at Craig Green in London and Dries van Noten in Paris.

60s and 70s chic

While the 70s prevailed in London and Milan, the idea of dressing up in a less structured and looser silhouette continued in Paris, emphasising a simplicity of the garments. A classic colour palette of black, grey and navy features subtle yet unusual retro highlights.

Fashion goes nomadic

Layered nomad-influenced styling is a key trend next season, with intricate graphic pattern placements to define a fashion-conscious amalgamation of Western trapper and Native American-inspired looks, as seen Artfully crafted materials, repairs and embellishments, and the luxurious, lived-in feel of the garments are key to this premium incarnation.

Modern minimalism

The convergence of trend stories have made for some clear key item and styling directions, of which a modern minimalism defines the season so far. An opulence in fabrics stands out and is taken to the next level and military even sporty looks exhibit a sense of refinement underpinned by exceptional tailoring, as seen at Les Hommes in Milan, Burberry in London, and Dior Homme in Paris.

Quality over quantity

Interesting is the focus on quality from leading design houses, where pared-down simplicity is still very much about luxury. Comfort comes to the fore as one of the most desirable facets of the best that money can buy. Long may this trend continue.