MFW AW25 collections were cautious, according to Harrod's buying director

Milan Fashion Week (MFW) autumn/winter 2025 collections were more cautious than bold, according to Simon Longland, buying director – fashion at Harrods, following the “refined impact” from designers at London Fashion Week.

“The mood of Milan Fashion Week felt like a direct continuation of the menswear AW25 collections presented in January,” said Longland. “This was a season of transition, with several major houses in limbo - some lacking a creative director, while others presented what may be their last collection under current leadership.”

Longland added: “As a result, many collections leaned towards caution rather than bold reinvention. Yet, even within this sense of restraint, the week reaffirmed Milan’s status as a hub for exceptional craftsmanship and enduring style.”

Fendi stood out as the main highlight of MFW, with Longland stating the Italian fashion house delivered a collection “that seamlessly blended heritage craftsmanship with modern sophistication”. Fendi celebrated its 100th anniversary and its first catwalk show since Kim Jones' departure in October. It showcased nearly 90 looks that highlighted the Roman fashion house’s heritage.

“The house’s ability to balance tradition with contemporary allure made it a clear frontrunner of the season,” added Longland.

Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana impress at MFW

When it came to the best show format in Milan, the honour goes to Dolce & Gabbana who Longland states have “mastered the art of spectacle”. The Italian brand hosted a street party where the models transitioned from the catwalk to the streets, where a DJ entertained the crowds.

Longland said: “This immersive format blurred the lines between the exclusive fashion world and the city itself, creating a dynamic and inclusive experience.”

MFW AW25 trends: shaggy textures, muted colours, and a leather and suede Resurgence

Regarding trends, Harrods’ buying director highlighted the use of shaggy textures, with shearling and faux fur dominating the catwalks, appearing in full jackets and coats as well as linings and trims on trousers and skirts. This was seen at Fendi, Sportmax, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Ferragamo and Giorgio Armani.

There was also a step towards a muted colour palette with a pop of red. “Black and ivory formed the foundation of most collections, while shades of brown - from soft latte hues to deep espresso - emerged as the strongest colour story,” explained Longland. “Where designers did embrace colour, red was the undeniable standout, ranging from bright scarlet to deep Bordeaux.” Rich hues of red were spotted at Max Mara, Ferragamo and Jil Sander.

This season also saw a resurgence in designers using leather and suede, which Longland said complemented the shaggy trends and weren’t just restricted to outerwear pieces, with Roberto Cavalli showcasing a sultry leather dress with a kick hem and Prada sent leather skirts with paper-bag waists adorned with a bow.

The final trend was oversized knitwear with “chunky, enveloping knitwear added to the season’s theme of tactile comfort and understated luxury,” added Longland. This was a key feature at the Gucci show, where knitted twinsets were styled with embellished midi skirts and Etro.

Longland’s must-have piece for AW25 from MFW: “A beautifully crafted shearling coat is set to be the ultimate wardrobe investment for the season, embodying both warmth and timeless elegance.”