NYFW SS22: Prabal Gurung’s dedication to an American woman

Prabal Gurung brings colour and energy to New York Fashion Week with his spring/summer 2022 collection re-envisioning feminine silhouettes for the modern American woman.

“America has always been a woman — but she has not always been treated beautifully,” writes Prabal Gurung in his show notes for spring/summer 2022. “What does it mean to be the most essential person in this country? What is feminine? What is American? And who gets to be it all — or none of it?”

The designer goes on to state that he was inspired by the social movements of 2020, the marches, protests and legislative advocacy, while also asking himself what is femininity, and reexamining notions of nationality, gender and ethnicity.

The idea of femininity, of shaping what’s considered beautiful, which can be mistaking labelled as weak, and how vulnerability should be embraced was the starting point of his spring/summer 2022.

“I’ve always been inspired by women as well as my feminine-leaning friends, those who boldly define what ‘feminine’ in itself, how ‘beautiful’ is shaped, who should control her own body, and which voices must be heard to challenge every form of injustice,” adds Gurung.

He has taken classics, such as the “power suit” and re-envisioned them with a “new lens encompassing confidence, boldness and fearlessness,” with bright gingham petal cut blazers and wrap minis, printed floral suits, and utility blazers with floral printed bubble hems on the hips teamed with slouchy matching floral trousers.

There was also a youthful feel to the collection, maybe to appeal to a new upcoming generation, with midriff-baring bubble minidresses, eco-tulle gathered bustier tops, babydoll dresses in statement florals layered over highlighter hued tops, and graffiti-printed organza fur-effect jackets.

These casual and fun pieces sat perfectly alongside his sporty-couture styles, with sweatshirt dresses embroidered with Swarovski crystals and floral jacquard sweatshirts teamed with matching hand-draped cascade skirts. This casual-luxe was also seen with sensual draped silk T-shirts, trucker jackets, and highlighter yellow cashmere knit dresses with contrasting pink handprinted seam detailing.

The standout pieces were his take on modern glamour - the drop-waist tea dresses with undone dressmaker buttons seen in crisp white poplin, highlighter yellow gingham and blue and black floral embossed cloqué.

“I consider it a ceremonial ritual and imperative for all of us to reflect upon and rediscover who we are. Let that unapologetic you be the forefront,” concludes Gurung. “I dedicate this collection to those who are unabashedly and authentically themselves in mind, body and spirit.”