'Queer Fashion' in Paris: French fashion designers break with Olympic tradition
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The opening ceremony of the Olympic Games in Paris demonstrated courage in terms of fashion. And it was not just designs from the houses of the luxury group and official Olympic partner LVMH were in the spotlight, but also young talents.
With the selection of costumes and designers, those responsible for artistic direction and costumes, Thomas Jolly and Daphné Bürki, made a statement. Thanks to their efforts, the unconventional designs of the French designers Jeanne Friot, Charles de Vilmorin, Kevin Germanier, Alphonse Maitrepierre, Weinsanto and Gilles Asquin were shown during the ceremony last Friday in the French capital. The enthusiasm for this queer event, which stood for values such as inclusion, love and freedom, was felt both in the stands and in the bar Chez Mylène on the banks of the Seine at the Bastille, where a "Drag Race Party" is regularly held.
"After everything we've experienced recently with the rise of the National Collective Movement, we needed an event like this," French designer Jeanne Friot told FashionUnited. In the LGBTQIA+ community, she is best known for her commitment and her role as its fashion spokesperson. For a year, she had to prepare the fashion spectacle in the strictest secrecy - a secret that became increasingly difficult to keep the closer the big day came.
A year ago, they contacted Bürki, who had already walked twice for Jeanne Friot, and Jolly. The creative duo had the idea of creating a picture with the horse and the symbolism of the French resistance fighter Joan of Arc, choreographed by the French dancer Maud le Pladec. The aim was to put young French artists in the spotlight. The Organizing Committee of the Olympic Games approved the idea.
It seemed like a crazy project: firstly because of the main sponsor LVMH, which had prevailed in many areas and took on the task of dressing the stars who were performing. The singers Lady Gaga, Aya Nakamura and Céline Dion all wore Dior outfits. Secondly, because of the clearly queer-oriented fashion show on the Passerelle Debilly pedestrian bridge.
"Both because of her first name and her story, this proposal around Joan of Arc was symbolically linked to my story," explains Friot. "Together with my team, we made a belt-print jumpsuit - like the dress Bürki wore at my Fall/Winter 2024 show - and a leather armor made of faux metal with the French leather artist Robert Mercier." On his Instagram profile, Mercier is enthusiastic: "I have no words to express my feelings for having taken part in this incredible event. I am infinitely grateful. For some time now, I have been looking for peace in my work. You have shown me that you can create incredible projects if you remain honest and benevolent."
Not knowing who would wear her designs, Friot had to duplicate them and make them fit all body shapes. In addition to what will likely be a landmark performance at the opening ceremonies of the Olympic and Paralympic Games, Friot presented her clothes alongside other fashion designers of her generation at the “Neuvième en scène” festival, which showcases the talent of artists in Paris' ninth arrondissement.
French fashion show for fun and inclusion
Prominent names from the French fashion scene, but not necessarily known to a wider audience, took part in the fashion show: Designer Kevin Germanier is known for his penchant for drag queens. Parisian fashion designer Victor Weinsanto showed a pink Alsatian headdress made of printed organza, inspired by Kelsh fabrics - linen, cotton or mixed fabrics made in Alsace - and worn by model Ildjima aka Queen Toïdé. Other designers who presented their work included Alphonse Maitre Pierre and Gilles Asquin, who has designed numerous looks for the TV show "Drag Race France". The event was accompanied by music from DJ and LGBT icon Barbara Butch.
Floating dancers on the Seine
The sequence with dancers on the Seine, sitting on stilts and appearing to float in the air, was created by French designer Charles de Vilmorin, known for his colorful prints.
Friot told FashionUnited that she "enjoyed total creative freedom" which allowed her to let her imagination run wild. What was particularly important to her was that the organizing committee accepted that the fashion show, which is so important for Paris' image as a fashion capital, would change. Even Bürki could hardly believe that it "would pass." But it worked.
This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.FR, Translated and edited to English.