Ruffles, feathers and crochet: Madrid turns craftsmanship into a trend

The collections of this season's Madrid Fashion Week were centred around handcrafted details, the cultural background of Spain and were often linked to occasion and bridal fashion. Some elements regularly return season-after-season to the Spanish fashion event, while others spiced up the overall look and feel of the occasion. While out and about in the Spanish capital, FashionUnited took a closer look at the trends for autumn/winter 24.

Side trains

Trains - whether extra long or on the shorter side - were not uncommon, especially within occasion and bridal fashion, and they didn't always appear to be as white as a wedding dress. In Madrid this season, a side-styled version could be viewed as a statement detail on elegant dresses in pastel colours or a similarly popular bold blue. The side train also caught the eye in a draped feature on pinstriped trousers, paired with a shirt and tie, thus establishing itself in modern menswear.

Feather dress

Feathers were a favourite material-choice in collections inspired by 'high tailoring'. Like birds, models showed off their plumage in all its splendour. Several brands such as Isabel Sanchis, Duyos and Adria Egea strayed towards a darker iteration reminiscent of Alfred Hitchcock's twisted productions. In addition to circling ravens, night owls were also on the move, as seen on the runway of Claro Couture. The Spanish label adorned a tight dress with a red smokey print and individual feathers. Together with a red plush coat draped lightly around exposed shoulders, the look reflected the tendency towards Parisian nightlife and Moulin Rouge, without the showgirl aspect.

Ruffles

Frilled details, which are popular in traditional flamenco dresses, offer significantly more theatrics. These also played an important role at fashion week in Madrid, and were particularly prominent within the ruffle trend. Instead of being used as cuffs or to hem the bottom of a dress, they could be found in the décolleté area of some collections. Fashion designers also used the style as an alternative button placket or in the form of a large drape. Brands such as Simorra and Hannibal Laguna, meanwhile, opted to avoid covering the shoulders.

Transparent fabrics

Sheer and transparent fabrics were very popular on the catwalk of Madrid Fashion Week, perhaps also because of their lightness in warmer temperatures. For FW24, some designers favoured tops with floral appliqués, glitter and gemstones, while others opted for subtle versions without any further details. In terms of colour, the transparent pieces were often black and white, yet there were also green and red accents. Depending on the collection, the piece was used as both a statement piece and a supporting companion. Claro Couture, for example, showed a bordeaux red mesh top combined with a fluffy ruffled skirt.

Crochet

A touch of 'boho chic' in the style of the classic white crochet tablecloth and embroidered curtains was another aesthetic seen among participating brands, largely present in the use of skirts, dresses and co-ord shirt and trouser sets. Despite the airy appearance, the looks seemed much more opaque than the transparent fabrics. They also came across as more restrained in terms of colour, usually exhibited tone-on-tone, combined with black or alongside a light sky blue.

Rose gold and bronze

A little more colour, albeit not overtly bright, could be seen in the rose gold and bronze details of collections by the likes of Lola Casademunt by Maite and Duyos, which had allowed these slightly shimmering hues to shine through as a print against matt tones. Meanwhile, menswear specialist Felix Ramiro integrated a bronze-coloured shirt with brown sleeves into a material mix of fur and animal print.

Vinyl look

Pieces depicting a vinyl look, which could have come straight from the polished car adverts of Madrid Fashion Week sponsor Mercedes-Benz, were also shiny. The light reflection from show overlights created exciting patterns on jackets, tops and skirts that changed depending on the movement. The colour palette is again rather restrained in black and grey-blue. On the other hand, brands such as Visori Studio and Malne relied on plenty of details such as feathers, chains and transparent fabrics to spice up the overall look.

This article originally appeared on FashionUnited.DE. Translation and edit by: Rachel Douglass.