Street style focus AW26: Calm returns to the streets of Milan

Following the Pitti Uomo menswear trade fair, which not only kicked off the new season but also showcased the latest visitor looks, all eyes are now on the streets of Milan. In the Italian fashion capital, the focus is on an understated look, playing more with details like a striking tie or unique buttons.

Double-breasted

Gentlemen wrapped up warm against the rather cool temperatures. A popular choice is the double-breasted jacket, inspired by uniforms and seen as either a long coat or a shorter version. It is usually buttoned to the top, making it the statement piece of the look. Large buttons, either in a contrasting colour or tone-on-tone, become the most important accent.

Bright ties

Fashion week attendees made a statement with their ties. The return of this accessory in street style is no longer news. Instead, more and more are daring to wear a bold statement piece with a wild pattern, ranging from a retro vibe to a modern graffiti design. While there are no colour limits for ties, wearers ensure they are either colour-coordinated with the look, echoing its shades, or provide a skilful and harmonious contrast.

Simple suit

While the Pitti Peacocks strut around Florence in their vintage three-piece suits with matching hats and walking sticks, visitors in Milan favour a more timeless and modern version of the suit.

They opt for simple black and grey two-piece suits. The most adventurous choices are a pinstripe version or a contrasting tie. The silhouettes are mostly straight, neither oversized nor extremely tight. These are often paired with a casual yet chic coat. Combined with large sunglasses, they bring the “old money” aesthetic into play without being too ostentatious.

Beige and brown for women

Women are following this trend. However, instead of black and brown, they are opting for various shades of beige and brown. A casual wool coat or trench coat worn over the top also plays an important role for them. Unlike the men, they also frequently use a large bag to complete the outfit.

Fur collars

Fur, whether a new purchase, vintage, or an alternative usually made from synthetic materials, remains a controversial topic regarding sustainability and animal welfare. Nevertheless, some visitors are once again wrapping themselves in it this season.

They are focusing particularly on large collars, which are used on a wide variety of jackets and in different colours. Consequently, the style varies depending on the piece, ranging from a casual look with jeans and a hoodie to a more chic “old money” style.

In addition to collars, entire fur coats and various details and accessories were also seen on the streets of Milan. These include an off-the-shoulder coat dress with a fur hem and a throw.